Author Topic: which brass to reform  (Read 8151 times)

Offline Black River Johnny

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which brass to reform
« on: August 26, 2008, 09:30:42 AM »
ok, I got the lyman dies, lead is on its way now for brass. I have looked at a lot of posts and stuff but still have questions.
What caliber brass is the easiest or best to reform?
What ever it is, is it as simple as annealling and running through the sizer?
What exactly is annealling (I know what it is but how does it apply to brass)
does anyone have 50 cases they could sell me to try?
Thanks
John

Offline Hobie

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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2008, 05:26:04 PM »
ok, I got the lyman dies, lead is on its way now for brass. I have looked at a lot of posts and stuff but still have questions.
What caliber brass is the easiest or best to reform?
What ever it is, is it as simple as annealling and running through the sizer?
What exactly is annealling (I know what it is but how does it apply to brass)
does anyone have 50 cases they could sell me to try?
Thanks
John
Maybe I missed another post, what cartridge was that?
Sincerely,

Hobie

"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson

Offline Grizzly Adams

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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2008, 07:46:33 PM »
I use reformed 348 brass to make 45-75 cases.  It is relatively inexpensive, lasts forever, and works in all of my rifles. :)

To reform the brass, I use a set of expansion plugs that I obtained from C&H Die and Tool.


Once the neck is expanded to 45 caliber, I trim to length, full length size and load.  First firing or so, fire forms and sets the brass.  (Note:  First trim should be at least 1.90, as the case will "shrink" with the first firing.  Once it settles in, 1.88-1.89 will work in anyones rifle.)




From left to right is a formed case, a reload and an original 45-75 cartridge for comparison:


I hope Hobie will return with his method which uses 50 Alaskan brass, and is a bit less time consuming than my method. ;)



In addition, factory reloads are available from Ten - X in either BP or smokeless loadings.  Hang on to your socks when you hear the  price! :o
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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #3 on: Today at 01:59:22 AM »

Offline Black River Johnny

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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2008, 08:11:42 PM »
Hobie,

That was 45-75 - I know you have done a lot of this, so I am looking forward to your advice. The main thing I would like to know is, is there a brass that I can just run through the sizing die, or does it have to go in steps, and if so what and where do I  get the tools?
thanks

Offline Grizzly Adams

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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2008, 03:59:13 PM »
ok, I got the lyman dies, lead is on its way now for brass. I have looked at a lot of posts and stuff but still have questions.
What caliber brass is the easiest or best to reform?
What ever it is, is it as simple as annealling and running through the sizer?
What exactly is annealling (I know what it is but how does it apply to brass)

does anyone have 50 cases they could sell me to try?
Thanks
John

Go here - scroll down to "Old Methods."

http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm

By the way,for expander plugs see C&H Die and Tool 740-397-7214.
http://www.ch4d.com/



If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran!
COMNAVFORV, NRA life, SASS Life, TG, STORM Rider #36.
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Offline Hobie

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Re: which brass to reform
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2008, 08:22:00 AM »
Hobie,

That was 45-75 - I know you have done a lot of this, so I am looking forward to your advice. The main thing I would like to know is, is there a brass that I can just run through the sizing die, or does it have to go in steps, and if so what and where do I  get the tools?
thanks
You have to trim either the .50-90 or .50 Alaskan brass.  The .50-90 also has to have the rim turned down but in the end is a better fit.  Either can be then run into the die (with proper lubrication).  Both should then be annealed.  There is no one step case transformation.  Even .50-95 WCF cases would likely have to be trimmed to square up the case mouths but they are even more expensive!  You can buy Bertram brass but it is VERY expensive.  I prefer the .50 AK on balance but mostly because I don't have to turn the rims. 
Sincerely,

Hobie

"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson

 

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