Need more advice Please!

[Ace Lungger]

got my books, got my awl for awl and know how to use it, got my oversticher, got my adjustable tool to cut my bevels, got thread,  got me a basic 7 set, and a few more stamps, got my Veg tanned leather and liner hide.
I have made my first set of patterns, and they look good! these holsters I am going to make are for 4 3/4" barrel open top 72's, these are not skiirts holsters, they have a few curves. Does anyone use a roller cutter to cut out the curves?
 In my whole life, I have allways been like a kid at x-mas, I am ready to play with my new toys wheter or not I know how.
But as to this holster making, I do not what to mess up! Leather work, isn't like wood working or auto body working.you ruin a board you just get another one out of the pile, same as body work, specialy on custom cars like I use to build, if you don't like the way it looks, you just cut it off, and get another piece of metal. but when it comes to leather, untill I know I can do this, I can't  order $200.00 worth of leather.
 After I get it casted, do any of you use a roller cutter? As normal, long winded, and I am sorry.
I hope everyone has a good weekend!
Ace

[panhead pete]

Howdy Ace,

When I first started, I used a pair of shears from Tandy.  These are still sharp and useful, but make cutting inside curves very tricky.  After taking some classes with with a pro, I started using a half round or a trim knife.  If you do not have the time to learn how to use AND sharpen a half round knife, the trim knife works like a champ.  The trim knife has a hooked, replaceable blade.  Also, use a hole pinch for corners and tight curves.  This keeps the leather from splitting in corners and gives you a place to start your cuts. 

Good Luck, Amigo,

Panhead Pete

www.rdoublec.com  in case ya wanna see some of my stuff!

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Here's a picture of the three knives I use the most. The center one is what I use for most medium curves. I like the lower one for tighter curves. Straight cuts and wide, sweeping curves go great with the top knife. It's basically how much curve you can manage with the width of the blade.

The top two were made from a power hacksaw blade but you can find one much like the middle one commercially made. The bottom one is definitely commercial with replaceable blades. I've never seen a commercial one like the top one. When I first started, I used an old worn-out linoleum knife until I made the other one.

[Advertising]

[Silver_Rings]

I use a rotary cutter often.  It is hard to use on curves.  An exacto knife is what i use on curves, usually with a straight blade.

If you go with a rotary cutter the smaller the wheel the tighter the curve you can cut.  However the smaller wheels may not cut the thick leather all the way through which is a problem.

SR

[Buck Stinson]

Use a box cutter.  The type that will accept a single edge razor blade.  They work great, they're cheap and you can find replacement blades at any hardware store.

[Ace Lungger]

  Thanks Guys, you all have gave me great advice, and I have everything execp the nice looking little knife  that Marshall Will has.
 You could say i pretty nervous, has that happened to any of you guys?
Once again Thank you Thank You Thank you
I will keep you up to date!
Ace

[cowboywc]

Howdy Ace
Nervous? I'm starting on my first full size saddle, it's for a contest in Sheridan, Wy at the Trade Show
in May. You're darn right I'm nervous.......
WC

[Dalton Masterson]

If ya use a regular utility knife, get the fixed blade one, not the retractable. I used a roller in the beginning, and for thinner hides, it worked ok, but the good sharp knife approach works better for me now. Good luck! DM

[Ace Lungger]

i want to first of all thank you folks so much! You allways help me out when I ask a question, I am going looking for one of those prudy little knifes that marshall has, I have everything else.
 I am going to get the nerve up and start on it Monday.
Have a good weekend.
Ace

[cowboywc]

Howdy Ace
The knife with the extra blades can be bought at any Tandy store and most Tandy dealers.
You might also think about getting a head or round knife, They are a very helpful tool.
WC

[Slowhand Bob]

Ace, I have been using the angle head case cutters (can be bought anywhere) for several years now and consider them to be a fair to good all around knife for cutting the the heavier holster leathers.  When the curves get pretty tight I go to the concave curved edge hobby type knife (hobby shops carry X-Acto or Tandy), which gives lots of control in the tight places.  One of the big pluses for these two, in addition to low initial cost, is the easily changable blades.  Buy top quality SHARP blades and change then as soon as they start dragging for a safe alternative to most other leather cutters.  I have not even nicked myself once since going to this style and its more natural to keep the off hand from in front of the cut than many others.  Another knife that I frequently use for the long straight cuts is an angle head carpet cutter style with interchangable Personna blades, also found at Home Depot.  These are super sharp and work great when no curve or only very subtle curves are needed, follows a straight edge very well also. 

That was a good tip on using round punches to cut out the smaller curves and a larger punch to give a starting cut in larger curves.  I find the cheep Chineese punch sets at Harbor Freight to exceed Craft punches in quality and at least equal CSO quality.  The steel seems good once they are home sharpened. 

Take it from someone who has skived a finger more than once, these work just as well, if not better than the supposed professional knives and take the sharpening time out of the equasion, with only a light buffing touch on a hard felt wheel needed occasionally.  I have been saving my old blades for recovery but have yet to take on the job as good quality replacements are more practical than my time spent trying to salvage the old edges. 

[ChuckBurrows]

FWIW - I re-sharpen both my utility knife and trim knife (also called a clicker knife) blades - I have a slow sped (1750 rpm) buffer that I keep an 8" x 1/2" sewn wheel on loaded with red rouge - I get at least a half dozen sharpenings per blade before they wear out. Only taks a moment to "buff' them sharp...

I've still got my old head knives and other customs, but now use the utility and clicker most of the time - for me they save time and for me time is real important. Plus most of my work is smaller these days and I find the knives I now use more conveneient - for belts I use a strip gauge. Finally due to a neck injury I find cutting on the pull is less problematic than pushing to cut as one often does with - any one with "injuries and/or aches and pains" should try both methods - on may be more comfortable.......

As always others mileage WILL vary......

[Slowhand Bob]

Chuck, I keep several of the strip cutters preset to the most used strap widths and am pretty happy with this solution to most belts.  For that first long straight cut on an uncut hide is where I use the carpet blade, of which I spoke.  I was so tickled with its performance that it actually has taken some work from the utility knife in other areas.  The Personna version has thinner guage blades with sharper edges.

Another interesting aid I use for laying out the first straight line on a hide is a polly board from Woodcraft.  Thes are available 3"x1/8"x4' long and I have two mounted end to end on the edge of an eight foot table.  This is a great time saver anytime there is a need for extra long cuts without constantly shifting the work or the cutting board.

I purchased one of the antique crank style strap cutters off Ebay many years ago and my experience with it was less than good.  Best case scenario is that it is very slow and does not lend itself to cutting from larger sections of hides.  Still waiting for the next DVD, as this is the closest some of us ever can get to learning from a master.