Author Topic: EAA Bounty Hunter 357  (Read 10644 times)

Offline New Salem Bob

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EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« on: January 19, 2008, 09:26:49 PM »
I am looking for input on this Pistol,  Just bought one and hope I did the right thing.  Feels good seems to be a good and heavy frame about the same size and weight as my Ruger Vaquaro (old model).  Was looking for a second gun priced reasonable.  Please let me know the pros and cons.

Offline Bow View Haymaker

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2008, 11:20:43 PM »
I got one last year to shoot with my Blackhawk.  They feels pretty close.  The Bounty Hunter shoots good too.  I did have trouble with it binding up and cocking really hard for one shot out of each cylinder.  Finaly figured out that if I don't use one chamber then it has no problem.  The trick was figuring out which chamber.  Now I know which one not to load.  I could have a smith look at it and find out what is wrong with that chamber but I only need five anyway.  The recessed rims on  the cylinder make it a bit harder for the loading officer to verify that the empty is under the hammer. 
 
Bow View Haymaker

GAF #522  Dept of the Platte
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Offline Four-Eyed Buck

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2008, 07:05:02 AM »
They are accurate, tough guns. I have experience with four of them, a .45 and .357 of my own, and two .357's of my shooting partners. They can be tuned, light springs for Colt revolvers will work. Believe the Wolff part number is 32280, IIRC. Only problems I've encountered were primer sensitivity with lighter springs, all in the .357's and a problem with breaking off the ejector button, again on the .357 guns. I believe they've gone to a different design on those as the last replacemment they sent me was definately different than the others. It has now lasted about 3 years.The other problems stem from the transfer bar set up. For light strikes, it's t-bar not covering the firing pin completely and the overall geometry when using lighter springs. The other problem was the rivet/stud that holds the t-bar on the side of the hammer breaking off if the t-bar gets stuck under the pin. This is usually caused by the cyl. pin drifting out under firing condtions or not being in all the way in the first place. We solved that in two ways as far as the light strikes go. On mine, my smith extended the bar. On my partner's, he removed the bar and built up the hammer face. My .45 is done that way now as well. The .45 was my first CAS revolver, and is getting ready to start it's 11th season. It hasn't given me a problem that wasn't my own doing.
 As far as the problem with one chamber jamming the gun, the rebate on that one might not be deep enough thereby letting the rim drag.
 Hope this long-winded dissertation answers some of your questions. Contact me if you have other questions and I'll be glad to help if I can.....................Buck 8) ::) ;)
I might be slow, but I'm mostly accurate.....

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #3 on: Today at 02:20:04 PM »

Offline Lewie Girardeau

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2010, 04:27:16 PM »


           HIYA Pards;


                 I took my bounty hunter to the range this afternoon fo rthe first time and had a reoccuring problem with the ejector catching one the return stroke at the little notch just infront of the forcing cone ( All the way back)
    Is this normal? I fired 60 smokeless rounds and it did it from the very first one.
    It seems as if the little half moon is turning at a slight angle when I bring it back and wedging at the point where the slot opens,
 ( again all the way at the back)
    Could I replace that strip of (plastic it looks like) with a straight section to do away with it all together? I can't see why I would want to keep the ejector rod back anyhow.
    BTW, mine shoots low and to the right.


                                                                                                               Lewie Girardeau

Offline Harley Starr

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2010, 08:28:39 AM »

           HIYA Pards;


                 I took my bounty hunter to the range this afternoon fo rthe first time and had a reoccuring problem with the ejector catching one the return stroke at the little notch just infront of the forcing cone ( All the way back)
    Is this normal? I fired 60 smokeless rounds and it did it from the very first one.
    It seems as if the little half moon is turning at a slight angle when I bring it back and wedging at the point where the slot opens,
 ( again all the way at the back)
    Could I replace that strip of (plastic it looks like) with a straight section to do away with it all together? I can't see why I would want to keep the ejector rod back anyhow.
    BTW, mine shoots low and to the right.


                                                                                                               Lewie Girardeau
You may need to file down the rear notch on the ejector rod housing.
A work in progress.

Offline Trooper Zeke

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2010, 08:13:56 AM »
I started my Cowboy action career this past year with 2 .357 Bounty Hunters. This is my experience with them. The first one after I got it home I noticed the front sight canted about 5-10 degrees off center. I returned it to EAA without shooting it for repair. EAA eventually replaced the weapon after several months as it was not repairable. The second one had the hand spring come loose after about 200 rounds. EAA offered to fix it but it was cheaper and faster to  buy a new hand with the spring installed than to return the gun to them for repair. I purchased some wolf main springs and tried them. First you have to enlarge the hole the screw passes thru then you have to change the contour of the wolf spring to match the contour of the factory spring or you will get light primer strikes. That won't work too long thou as the Wolf springs will revert to their original contours and misfires will happen. Right now both the Bounty Hunters have the factory spring back in them with the Brownells SAA Neoprene Main spring spacers which will allow you to tune the spring tension to suit your desires. Then the spring steel trigger extension broke free. The extension is what moves the transfer bar that hits the firing pin. Again EAA offered to fix it but it was cheaper and faster to order a trigger and put it in myself. Good things about the Bounty Hunter is they have a lifetime warranty from EAA and the parts are readily available from EAA's web site. EAA will not send you free replacement parts . When I asked about them sending me a new trigger or hand they pleaded liabiliy reasons for not sending them to me. However I was able to order the parts from their website no problem. I have since purchased 2 Puma Factory Tuned Westerners from CDNN. The fit, finish, action are light years better than the Bounty Hunters. Lastly if I have any further problems with the transfer bars I intend to remove the triggger extensions and JB Weld the transfer bars to the hammer in the fire position to remove the problem if it resurfaces. Make certain you always have the Cylinder pin installed when you squeeze the trigger. There is a small spring loaded extension in the pin that keeps the transfer bar from hanging up on the firing pin, I suspect cycling the action while cleaning the weapon without the cylinder installed is how I damaged the trigger.

Offline HogDoc Olliday

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Re: EAA Bounty Hunter 357
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2012, 06:28:40 PM »
I have a pair. Love 'em.  :D
HogDoc Olliday
SASS #89965
"Born 100 Years too late"

 

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