Irish Dave, Will Ketchum and the rest of you city slickers..

[Big Hext Finnigan]

What should I look for in a good derby?
What was common, high or short.. even the John Bull style?

Also, when did the "hard" derby show up?
Gracias,

[Delmonico]

Hext if you mean a stiffened Derby, they go back to the 1830's in Jolly ol' England.  They were named after, but most likey not invented by Edward Stanley 12th Earl of Derby, Derby being a town in the county of Derbyshire.

I think Dave's hat if I remember right is a Bailey Sargosa, that's called a Western Derby because its got a larger brim that the Bowler or English Derby like the one Wll wears.  That Bailey is a nice hat for the right persona, I try them on a lot of folks when puttin' together an outfit.  I often like the look better than they do, but I sell them kinda steady. 

One thing, you might want to do some tryin' on and lookin' before you buy.  Not every one looks as fine as these to gentlemen in one.  I end up lookin' like Teaspoon in The Young Riders in one.  I've been tryin' to think how you'd look in one.  Can't say fer sure since I don't have yer carcass to try stuff with.  Let me know how it works out and post a pic if ya do it.

[Big Hext Finnigan]

Thanks Del,

I've actually got a couple of hats.. I'll get a picture and post it when I get a chance.

Interesting thought.. in the day, did it matter how it looked on you?  By that I mean, if you were in polite society, in town, (like at a banquet) wouldn't you wear a derby or hamburg or top hat no matter if it was flattering on your or not?  That's kinda where I'm coming from on this..

I've got a hard derby with a frayed bound edge to wear with my butcher outfit.  I wanted to make sure it was good to go with the time period.

Thanks for the good advice, as always..

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[Will Ketchum]

Hext, I have both the high and low crown derbys.  I personally like the higher one better.  I feel like Laurel of Laurel and Hardy in the lower one.  I also lke the Homburg or fedora look.

Being a detective I must have a varitey of outfits so to blend in with the crowd.

I just had a custom wool suit made that I won the best city type at the Mississippi Fandango.  The woman who made it is making me a lighter weight one for the Summer.

Will Ketchum

[Irish Dave]

Hext:
Del's right about the one I wear, it's the Bailey Saragosa. Funny thing, I walked past it on the shelves at various places for years wondering why anyone would want to wear such a funky hat. Then one day I was at Tonto Rim and had too much time on my hands and I ended up trying it on. Damn if I didn't like it.

It is more of a "western' derby as it does have a slightly wider brim than the traditional. I also agree with Will. I've tried some of the lower-crowned ones and don't care for them at all. I guess I prefer a slightly taller than traditional crown and brim from 2.5-3.5 inches, then rolled, of course. The Homburg is also a very nice look for a cityfied persona. My son wears one for our reenactments etc. and I often envy his hat. 

Historically, the Derbys go WAY back as Del said, so  you'd be fine in any portion of our time period.