Author Topic: IAB Sharps  (Read 128678 times)

Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #160 on: December 16, 2011, 07:31:54 AM »
Well I gotta admit, the smartest thing I did as a bull rider was to quit bein' a bull rider. I said it was exciting, but I never said it was a smart thing to do.
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #161 on: January 07, 2012, 05:32:06 PM »
RANGE REPORT 1/7/12 LONG ISLAND, NY
Well, this isn't normally the time of year you would want to be at an outdoor shooting range, but thanks to about the strangest Winter weather I have ever seen here, it was indeed a great day to be at the range. Sunny with the slightest breeze and almost 60 degrees this afternoon. The range was crowded with everybody who wanted to get some outdoor shooting in before Winter catches up with us.
Anyway, got to put another 50 rounds in my IAB Sharps with the Leatherman 30" scope. Both the rifle and the scope did just fine with the scope in the middle of my sighting in procedure. First time out I was at 50 yards just to get on paper. Today moving out to 100 yards I found that I still need to tweak it a little more, as my groups were about 4" to the right. Without bothering to adjust the scope I was able to get 4" groups on the bull by using a little Kentucky windage, just holding about 4" to the left. The scope seems to be holoding it's zero, and adjusting for elevation is no problem. The one thing I found with this scope that I think I'll just have to live with is the windage adjustment. You actually have to almost remove the elevation piece to access the lock screw for the windage. And it is a design flaw I don't think I will be able to overcome. The good news is that once I get the windage set right on, I should be able to lock it down and never have to bother with it again. I can still compensate for distance and bullet weight by adjusting the elevation with no problem. And if I have to compensate for actual wind conditions, I'll just have to do it the old fashond way, which is to say Kentucky windage, just like I did today.
As for the rifle, it functioned perfectly. Accurate, smooth, with no failures to fire or eject. No broken springs or firing pins. Look like I got one of the few IAB Sharps rifles that does the job. Of course, it could always break on the next shot. But if anybody wants to place any bets, I'll put up $100. that says I get to 1,000 rounds with a breakage. And no, you don't win if I have a failure to fire every once in a while. But the bet is that if something breaks on the rifle due to normal use, you win. If I hit 1,000 rounds without anything on the rifle breaking, I win. Unless there is someone local I can go shooting with at the Brookhaven Shooting Range, I guess we can't really make a bet. But I promise that if I have a breakage, I will share that info with you all.
So anyway, is this still a thread about the "CHEAPO SHARPS" club, and is anybody still interested?
Bony Notches!
HEART & SOUL IN THE OLD WEST

Offline Don Nix

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #162 on: January 07, 2012, 05:48:59 PM »
I enjoy your range reports on the IAB Sharps because I own one also, Mine is a 45-110 and I cant find a flaw on it so far. Although I did lose a lever retaining  ball and spring. You really have to watch that  as that little ball and spring will take flight if yu trop the carrier in the field to clean. Luckily VTI carries the parts and they are cheap so I bought two  of each. I think Ill keep an extra firing pin just in case also.
 I am particularly interested in your scope. I am considering a Malcolm scope but i wanted to talk to someone who had gone that route before I committed to buying and mounting one.
 I enjoy the tang sight but  my eyes are getting to the point that I think the scope would be easier plus I just like the look of the long scope.
 I have fired all my rounds but four and I have cleaned my brass now I have to reload my empties and buy some new brass as I only have 20 total right now, Plus I am looking to find a bullet mold and accessories. I have been shooting  Pyrodex because I could not find any Goex locally but I have ordered some and as soon as it and the new brass gets here I think I'll spring for the Malcolm.
 These maybe cheapo Sharps but they are a lot of fun plus I have a friend who owns three Shilo rifles and my rifles fit and finish I think are better overall plus he tells me that he has broken more than a few firing pins and always leeps a spare.
 So I think I'll stick with my el Cheapo for now and just enjoy it.

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #163 on: Today at 04:59:46 AM »

Offline Steel Horse Bailey

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #163 on: January 08, 2012, 03:49:54 AM »
Fellas, this starts the New Year right!  IE 300, Bravo!  You're having fun, and that is the name of the game!
"May Your Powder always be Dry and Black; Your Smoke always White; and Your Flames Always Light the Way to Eternal Shooting Fulfillment !"

Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #164 on: January 08, 2012, 03:40:30 PM »
Well Thanks as usual Steel Horse for the kind words! And Don, I'm real glad to hear about your IAB in 45-110. Did IAB make it in that caliber or did you start with a 45-70 and have it reamed to 45-110? I'll bet those loooong 45-110 cartridges get some attention at the range since they look a little like ICBM's! I would imagine that that additional powder capacity would be a big advantage when your hunting or shooting out at those real long distances. I have often wondered about how much additional recoil you get from those over the common 45-70's, but I guess if you have enough weight in the rifle it wouldn't be too bad. I'd love to hear some more about your rifle and it'specs. Barrel length, weight, double set triggers, ect.
Now I have to admit that I have never even seen a Montana Sharps in person, so I can't judge their quality of fit and finnish compared to mine. The only other Sharps that I have actually held was one of the Pedersoli rifles, and while it was a little nicer than my IAB in that department, it wasn't a whole lot nicer. Wood to metal was a little tighter, and some of the metal was a little finer in the polish department. My barrel has a kind of a frosted bead blast finish as opposed to a fine polish, but while that bothered me a little when I first got it, I now look at it as an advantage in that it probably won't show up minor dings and scratches as much as a finely polished barrel. Apples and oranges. The only other thing as far as metal finish goes is that when the block is up in battery, the sides of the block are finished pretty rough, with a verticle grinding pattern like it was finished on a pretty corse grit of paper like maybe an 80 or 120 grit, than left in the white. Would have looked nicer if they had gone to maybe a 220 grit or so. But after touching it up with some cold blue, it's hardley noticable, and since the sides don't seem to be bearing surfaces during the cycling of the action, it doesn't affect the smoothness of the action. Which by the way, is pretty smooth.
The only other thing I wasn't real happy with as far as the finish goes, was the wood finish that was on it when I got it. I think the Italian's seem to prefer wood to be a little glossier than I like. So I stripped it and rubbed in a couple of coats of linseed oil which gave it a more subdued warm look which I prefer.
Overall, I think these are well finished rifles. I've owned a lot of guns over the years, and although I'm not rich, I've had some nicely finished guns. But I would still have to say that this is nicer than anything else I've owned as far as new guns go. I did once own a Winchester Model 1907 .351 Semi Automatic rifle, and I always thought that if I had owned it when it was new, it probably would have been the most finely finished rifle I would have owned. It wasn't new when I got it, but it was in real nice condition, and you could just tell that it must have been a gem when it first left the factory. But if you go into a gun store and look at what's leaving the factories now, you will have to spend some big bucks to get the quality of fit and finish we have on our IAB's. By the way, I got my IAB Sharps used for $550. in close to new condition.
As far as the scope goes, some of my previous posts have outlined what I did to my mounts to get them much improved over what they were when I received them. The scope is fine as it comes, and it really does look cool! Good clear optics and probably as good as the original Malcolm's were. A lot of people suggest getting the mounts made by one of the American makers, and for serious competition, they may well be right. I'm still getting the hang of this stuff, but I can tell you that I did have to put some time and effort into getting my mounts to work as good as they do. On the other hand, it was a good education and let me get a lot more familiar with the way these mounts work. I basically look at these mounts as a pre-assembled kit. Take them apart, work on them, polish them, file them to get the components to fit together correctly, and maybe you will have something. Only time and use will tell how servicable they will be in the long run. But I wouldn't be supprized if I end up upgrading the mounts eventually. The only negative about the scope is the small size of the opening for your eye. You have to work at holding the correct position to get that sight picture. On the other hand, I have read that that same atribute pretty much eliminates parellex.
Well, as I said, the weather has been very mild for this time of the year in this part of the country. But maybe God will smile on us up here this year and allow us to skip a severe Winter this year. Otherwise, I guess it's time to try my hand at reloading until we get to the Spring. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and if it stays warm, I'll keep you all posted about my progress with my IAB Sharps. Did I mention that I love this rifle?
Bony Notches
PS - Does anybody know how big a deal it is to change from single to double set triggers? I have a single, but I would love to have my trigger break at a couple of ounces like the proverbial glass rod. If I could just swap out one trigger package for another, that would be great!
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #165 on: January 18, 2012, 06:45:39 PM »
Hi Everybody!
Hey Don, did you ever get your Sharps scoped? Like I said, with the scope I am able to get 2'-3" groups at 100 yards with a flyer here and there. And I've never been a very good shot. The scope setup cost me more than my rifle, but it really makes for a nice package. And I'm sure Sgt. John Ryan never regretted spending big money on his scoped Sharps. After all, he claimed that he fired both the first and last shot in the Battle of the Little Big Horn. He couldn't have done that without the scope!
But I was thinkin' about that and I realized that when I was a kid I mostly shot .22's, but when you pay a buck or two for every pull of the trigger, I guess you concentrate a little harder at putting holes where you aim. Seems like when I was a kid with my .22 in the desert, the goal was to see how fast I could make the sand kick up in the general vacinity of where I was aiming. If I happened to bounce a can every once in a while, well, that was fine too. Mainly I just wanted to make the sand splash, but at my age making groups is more satisfying.
Well now I'm entering the next phase of my love affair with my Sharps. I'm gonna' make my own ammo for it. I have 99 empties, and am waiting on another 135 loaded rounds that I just ordered.  On Gunbroker I got an auction for some older small name handloads that are packed in 15 round boxes, and I paid less than a buck each for them. I'll pop off a few and if their no good I'll pull them for components. I also got 3 boxes of HSM 45-70 405 gr. RNFP Cowboy Action for $20.20 a box, and I'll do the same with those. Either one at about a buck each seems to be a good bet for reloading if they don't shoot well. I also got 200 #1 Buffalo bullets from Missouri Bullet's which are 405 grain RNFP cast .459 diameter. These bullets get good reviews from users and and end up costing about .25 cents each delivered. I have about 3/4 can of FFG/RS Pyrodex and an almost full pack of Federal Large Rifle primers. So I've got the components to get started.
Tomarrow UPS is delivering my reloading equipment which consists of the LEE BREECH LOCK CHALLENGER PRESS KIT along with 45-70 dies including the extra crimp die and a few other accessories to round out the set. Now the only reloading I've ever done was some .38 Special with the old Lee Loader when I was a kid ( yeah, I popped a few primers in the living room) and than just a few months ago I handloaded some .45-70s with the Pyrodex I have. I used my drill press with a wood dowel to seat my primers and it worked great! I seated the bullets by hand and used some nail polish clear coat to seal and secure the bullets in the cases, and you know what? They went BOOM and hit the paper! I couldn't have used these rounds in a lever gun because the first rounds recoil would probably have pulled the bullets in the other rounds, but in a single shot trapdoor they worked just fine. Anyway, that's the extent of my reloading experience.
My lack of experience may be an advantage because from what I have read, it's usually people who have gotten used to other equipment that have trouble with the Lee stuff. So I bring no pre-conceived notions about how this equipment should be configured or work; my mind is a clean slate when it comes to reloading. And I'll be using a Lee reloading manual which I'm sure is geared toward people using Lee equipment. From what I have read, even though the .45-70 is a long round, it's also a streight sided round with no taper or bottleneck, so as long as I lube mu cases well and go slow, this press should do the job. If I feel anything hanging up, I'll open the press, remove the case, clean and relube, and try again. And in keeping with the topic of this post, the Lee qualifies as the Cheapo reloading system to go along with the Cheapo Sharps rifle. So hopefully I'll do some reloading this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes.
As always, suggestions are welcome. Just don't tell me to throw the Lee equipment in the lake.
BONY NOTCHES!
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Offline Sir Charles deMouton-Black

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #166 on: January 18, 2012, 07:39:55 PM »
IE300;  You are coming along Jes Fine!!  No I won't suggest you can the LEE stuff, but I might suggest you mail it to me collect ;D ;D

I love my LEE stuff.   
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #167 on: January 19, 2012, 07:32:08 AM »
Well that is encouraging Sir Charles!
Looks like we are finding more common ground as time goes on, and to show my appreciation for your encouragement I'm going to make this my shortest post ever!
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #168 on: January 19, 2012, 08:01:04 AM »
Back again for a quick reloading question,
I didn't say it would be my only post, just my shortest. But I will make this one short as I can. The reason I got the crimp die along with my die set is because I have read that if possible you should seat your bullets in the case forward enough to almost engage the rifling in the barrel. My understanding is that you want to avoid having to "jump" any free space between the front end of the chamber and the begining of the rifling. If I understand correctly, that "jump" can cause 2 problems. First is that that free space can allow some hot combustion gasses to migrate around the front of the bullet and possibly cause some throat errosion. Second is that those gasses in conjunction with that free space can allow the bullet to yaw slightly before engaging the rifling, again causing throat erosion but also causing the bullet to deform when it engages the rifling unevenly.
This possibility makes sense to me as I visualize it in my mind's eye, but is it a genuine concern that I should try to avoid by customizing my reload to be a specific length to match my rifle's chamber? Assuming it is, how do I go about determining the optimum loaded length for my loads to match my chamber? Do I need to cast my chamber and get my dimension from the casting, or is there an easier way to measure my chamber? Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
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Offline Sir Charles deMouton-Black

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #169 on: January 19, 2012, 10:00:59 AM »
There are several ways.  The one I use is to take one of my bullets and slip it into the breach. Poke it with a pencil 'til it just sticks in the throat. Use a cleaning rod with a flat end and slide it in the muzzle until it just contacts the nose of the bullet you just stuck in the throat. Mark the rod with a pencil. Remove to bullet and close the breach. Slide the rod in to touch the breach face and mark the rod again.  The difference between the two marks is your OAL

From that you can easily figure seating depth so a powder load can be determined.

P.S;  Steel Horse Bailey just described the other common method of determining maximum OAL.  Shooting tests will find the ideal OAL for your ammo & rifle.
P.P.S; Capt Dan described the third way, and likely the simplest and quickest.
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Offline Steel Horse Bailey

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #170 on: January 19, 2012, 10:03:56 AM »
IE Howdy!

As I've stated befor, I'm NOT a BPCR reloading expert.  The chamber cast seems to me to be the best way to find out a LOT of information.  I believe that by seating the bullet so that it is just shy of touching the beginning of the rifling - say, .005" - .010" at the most, you'll minimize the bullet "jump" and it won't "free-bore."  I believe that some also advocate just touching the rifling, but I tend to think that might cause an unwanted pressure spike, so when I did my loading COL experiment, I ended up with about .010" from the rifling.  With all the other "issues" I've had I don't know if it really made a difference or not.  Factory smokeyless rounds shoot fine, just not BP so much.  I didn't have any Cerrosafe, so my method was simply slip-fitting a bullet in the neck and letting the rifling push the bullet into the case, then working from there.  As others have mentioned about some of the Italian rifles, especially the Armi Sports, my rifle might well accept a 45-90 round because of excess space!  I've never found a properly loaded-to-specs 45-90 to try, however - but ... maybe someday!  As I recommended to YOU, a chamber cast would tell the tale!
 ::)
Have fun, pard.
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Offline cpt dan blodgett

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #171 on: January 19, 2012, 11:31:48 AM »
Put bullet in chamber push against lands gently with pencil measure to base of bullet with caliper
That is A
Measure length of bullet that is B
A+B is overall length of cartridge or C
A-case length is seating depth
C-caselength how far bullet sticks out of vase
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Offline cpt dan blodgett

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #172 on: January 19, 2012, 11:49:16 AM »
Somewhere along the way u may want a neck sizing die
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Offline Steel Horse Bailey

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #173 on: January 19, 2012, 07:01:12 PM »
Somewhere along the way u may want a neck sizing die


I believe he already has one.

I have and use one.  Except for my .223 & 30-06 Garand loads, I neck size ONLY.
(7.92 Mauser for my 2 K98 types and M1888, 30-06 for M1917, 45-70 for my Sharps, and 7.62X54R for my M91/30 & M44)

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Offline cpt dan blodgett

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #174 on: January 19, 2012, 07:34:30 PM »
May have misse.   that I'm working up a smart phone today not full screen
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Offline cpt dan blodgett

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #175 on: January 21, 2012, 03:33:24 PM »
IE Howdy!

As I've stated befor, I'm NOT a BPCR reloading expert.  The chamber cast seems to me to be the best way to find out a LOT of information.  I believe that by seating the bullet so that it is just shy of touching the beginning of the rifling - say, .005" - .010" at the most, you'll minimize the bullet "jump" and it won't "free-bore."  I believe that some also advocate just touching the rifling, but I tend to think that might cause an unwanted pressure spike, so when I did my loading COL experiment, I ended up with about .010" from the rifling.  With all the other "issues" I've had I don't know if it really made a difference or not.  Factory smokeyless rounds shoot fine, just not BP so much.  I didn't have any Cerrosafe, so my method was simply slip-fitting a bullet in the neck and letting the rifling push the bullet into the case, then working from there.  As others have mentioned about some of the Italian rifles, especially the Armi Sports, my rifle might well accept a 45-90 round because of excess space!  I've never found a properly loaded-to-specs 45-90 to try, however - but ... maybe someday!  As I recommended to YOU, a chamber cast would tell the tale!
 ::)
Have fun, pard.


Conventional wisdom states Armi Sports have a sloppy chamber and are unduly long.  Well I did cast mine and it is 2.125 vs 2.130 factory spec for Pedersoli.

Additionally the Pedersoli uses a 45 degree taper down to something like .460 - .462.  The army sports use a much sharper angle that is about 1/2 as long as the Pedersoli spec.  Posted dimensions of my Armi Sports Sharps and Navy Arms Pedersoli RB on another thread.
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #176 on: January 26, 2012, 01:14:26 PM »
Well I just opened my digital caliper to .005 to get a visual, and I have to say that it is a pretty small dimension. Admitedly this is new stuff to me but I am surprised to see that the dimensions we are talking about are as fine as they are, and would not have thought that .005 would make much of a difference one way or the other. So how critical are these overall lengths when they vary by .005? And how much variation would I find in factory ammo?
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Offline cpt dan blodgett

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #177 on: January 26, 2012, 06:05:30 PM »
Hard to tell.  Still have not figured out BP, but back in my High power days.  Some folks swore their rifles got much tiighter groups on the lands .002, 005, .010 off the lands.  My Remington 40x7.62 had a pretty genrouse lead and would shoot about 3/4 min with 190, 175 or 155 grain sierras.  Those bullets are about 1/4 inch different in length.

Do know with sierra match hollow points there is not a constant bullet length forming the hollow point can be out by about .010 or so, but the distance to a specific diameter not really close to the hollow point say bore diameter on the Ogive is very precise and repeatable.
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Offline IE300

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #178 on: February 06, 2012, 09:46:07 PM »
Spent the last week reading about and playing with my Lee Anniversery Reloading set. Got a set of 45-70 dies and the crimp die as well. I had a Harbor Freight rotory tumbler that I actually got to remove rust from small gun parts, so I figured I'd give it a try for my used brass. It doesn't have much capacity and I didn't have any polish media, but I got about 50 shells into it with a container of BB's I had laying around and it actually gave the shells a pretty good cleaning (after washing them with hot water and soap). They weren't really polished, but certainly more than clean enough for reloading.
I had a can of Pyrodex RS (FFG Equivilant) and also got a can of IMR 3031 smokeless, 200 cast lead 405 grain RNFP bullets from Missouri Bullet Company. I also have a box of 50 Hornady 300 grain JHP .45 cal. (.458) bullets, but for my first run I just used the cast lead 405's since the Hornady's were a lot more expensive.
With a total of 95 empties cleaned and primed, I made up 4 batches of 20 rounds each with the IMR powder. I started out with a load of 45.5 grains, than dropped to 36.4 grains, 31.8 grains, and finished up with 27.3 grains. So basically it was starting load, than minus 20%, minus 30%, and minus 40%.  I'm assuming that by the time I got to the minus 40% I am approaching squib load status. I wish I had a chronograph to see how these reductions in powder translated to muzzle velocity, but I guess that will be my next equipment purchase. The starting load with 45.5 grains is supposed to give me about 1597 FPS, which while not a buffalo killer is still above Cowboy Action velocity. The most enjoyable factory loaded round I've shot so far was the UltraMax 405 grain, but I have no idea what the velocity of that round was. I might hazard a guess of around 1,100 FPS or so. Maybe one of you know and could share that recipe with me. It was accurate and enjoyable to shoot, and would certainly be along the lines of what I would like to load for my own target shooting.
My last 15 rounds were loaded with the same bullet and 50 grains of the Pyrodex. I arrived at that load just by seeing how much powder I could get in the shell while leaving just enough space to have the bullet give the pyrodex a good crunch. I know that volume for volume Pyrodex is a little more powerful than black powder, but I think the 50 grains would still be substantially below the 70 grains that was supposidly the original 45-70 loading. I've also read that people who have tried haven't been able to get close to 70 grains in that case and still have enough room to seat the bullet. I get the impression that the 45-70 was originally more like a 45-65 or a 45-60. And I have read that you can't load enough black or substitute in a 45-70 shell to even come close to exceeding the safe pressure that a rifle in good condition can take.
So now I will once again invite any comments or suggestions from all of you who know more than me, which means all of you. If it sounds like I have done anything unsafe or potentially dangerous, please let me know. In closing I will say that although I have no experience with other reloading equipment, this Lee stuff sure seems like it is well thought out and engineered. Several simple and very clever devices which seem to work like a charm and be as strong as they need to be, without being overbuilt where they don't need to be. I showed my wife the Safty Primer Feed setup and demonstrated it for her, and the first thing she said was that it reminded he of her first job at Davis Aircraft Company. She, myself, and most other people I grew up with all had their first job at that factory, and those first jobs really were a lot like reloading. That company is no longer in our town, but next time you get on a commercial airliner, look at the bottom of the seat belt buckle. Odds are it will say Davis Aircraft Company.
Anyway, I digress as usual. I'll pray for shooting weather this weekend, try out my first reloads, keep detailed notes, and let you all know how my loads work out. Haven't broken that IAB Sharps rifle yet, but now that I can reload my ammo at 1/4 the price of what I was paying, I'm gonna give it my best. I mean, I can't break it if I don't shoot it, right?
BONY NOTCHES AND BIEN FRIJOLES!
BY THE WAY...I forgot to mention that I set my bullet seating so that the ogive is just touching the lands of the rifling. In fact, if you were to chamber a round and eject it without firing it, you would see the tinyest little dots around the ogive where it contacted the lands. I hope that's a good thing.
HEART & SOUL IN THE OLD WEST

Offline Steel Horse Bailey

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Re: IAB Sharps
« Reply #179 on: February 06, 2012, 11:14:53 PM »
Don't forget pard.  "Cowboy Action loads" are talking about pistol caliber loads, NOT 45-70.  Personally, I wouldn't load any rounds at "lower than starting" loads!  You're asking for trouble.  Now, I am talking about 45-70 loads for trapdoors and reproductions (which tend to act like BP loads of yesteryear.  NOT the loads for 45-70s to be shot out of Ruger #1 rifles and the like.  EVERY load book I own (I have 4 or 5 from Speer, Hornady, Lyman, Lee, Sierra, and numerous loads I've printed from the Hodgdon site) have a different section for 45-70 loads in Trapdoors & repro Sharps, RBs, etc.  So make sure you're using the right charts.

The reason I'm emphasizing this is because of what you printed about 40% reduced from starting loads, as you put it.  That's pretty dangerous without a chrono and pressure testing, pal!  5 to 10% lower than starting is one thing, 40% is quite another ... and you're talking about 3031, which is a very good powder.

Be safe ... be careful making up your own loads.  I'm just a dumb old ex-tanker, but you're playin' with fire, pard!  Fill those cases up to where you'll have about 1/16"-1/8" compression with that FFG equivalent Pyrodex or real Gunpowder, and if you need smokeyless loads, use safe, published starting to maximum loads, and you'll still keep yer eyes, and all your fingers.

your mileage may vary ....
"May Your Powder always be Dry and Black; Your Smoke always White; and Your Flames Always Light the Way to Eternal Shooting Fulfillment !"

 

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