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 on: Yesterday at 11:20:26 pm 
Started by Hoof Hearted - Last post by LonesomePigeon
That's super cool!

 on: Yesterday at 10:55:15 pm 
Started by celts352 - Last post by Cliff Fendley
Best? Depends on the style you're making and what you're planning to use it for. Is it something PC, SASS style shooting, etc?

As a general rule 8-10oz leather are fairly standard weights to use.

 on: Yesterday at 10:41:04 pm 
Started by otis luther-brown - Last post by otis luther-brown

Winchester 45/75 45/60 reloading materials for sale.  Includes 3 piece RCBS 45/75 Winchester Die Set; 52 rounds of JBA 45/75 Winchester brass (each fired about 3 times); 2 cavity RCBS 45 caliber 325 gran bullet mold (P/N 82045 at Buffalo Arms); single cavity Lyman 45 caliber 292 gran bullet mold(P/N 457191 at Buffalo Arms will work in a 45/60 load).  All would cost +$400 plus transportation at Buffalo Arms.  Asking $100 for all and I will cover the shipping. 45/75 cases are $2.00 each at Buffalo Arms.  So you are purchasing the case and the die and molds are free.  Call Fred at 269-823-4548.

 on: Yesterday at 10:26:24 pm 
Started by stuck_in_73 - Last post by Don Kenna
In my experience as a longtime black powder cartridge rifle shooter, the key is to use a product specifically formulated as a rust preventive.  While I currently live in a pretty dry climate (Montana), I spent many years in the much more humid eastern Oklahoma. 

The best I have so far found for the purpose is Birchwood Casey’s “Sheath,” now marketed as “Barricade.”  I also use it as a final bore protectant.  When I’ve done my part, it has never failed me.  Within a short time after application, it dries to an almost imperceptible film.  Every other rust preventive I’ve used pretty much required that the bore be wiped before firing.  When using “Sheath”/”Barricade,” I don’t bother to wipe the bore before shooting.  Although I don’t like to do so, circumstances on a couple of occasions have forced me to shoot a first round in a match from a cold bore earlier treated with “Sheath,” and I detected no detriment to accuracy.  Range testing has tended to confirm that.  Conversely, I’ve heard “Sheath” touted as a lubricant a couple of times (certainly not by Birchwood-Casey), at which task it fails miserably.

More than a few in recent years have recommended “EEZ-OX” as a rust preventive.  I’ve tried it and it does that job well, and has some capability as a bore solvent (which “Sheath” does not).  An exterior coat of it did, eventually, form a dry film, but it remained greasy much longer than “Sheath.”

Break Free CLP is my favorite lubricant for moving parts, and it most certainly does prevent rust.  But its primary intended use is what its name implies—a lubricant—and a heavy duty one at that.  Unless a heavy grease is really needed, I use it almost exclusively on internal mechanisms and don’t worry about inside rust at all.  Used as an exterior rust preventive, it remains a viscous, dirt attracting mess.

I’ve tried “Bore Butter” as a rust preventive, especially in rifle bores.  It did work, but perhaps not as well as “Sheath.”  Even its most stalwart advocates agreed that the bore of a rifle treated with it really must be wiped before firing.  As an external rust preventive, it remained greasy and was not as effective as "RIG," which is my choice of a rust preventive in very unusual circumstances (for me) where a greasy external surface is acceptable.   I still use “Bore Butter” to lubricate felt wads for cap-and-ball revolvers and muzzle-loading rifle patches.

I've heard and read varying reports about the efficacy of "Ballistol" as a rust preventive, an as a result of the mixed reviews, have never relied upon it as a primary rust preventive.  Diluted with water, however, I've found "Ballistol" nearly invaluable for a multitude of other uses--black powder cleaning solvent, between shot bore-wiping solution for single-shot rifles, keeping badly fouled black powder revolvers running, etc.   

I’ve infrequently used “Rem-Oil” as an internal lubricant and found it very satisfactory, particularly when a lubricant of lighter consistency than “Break Free CLP” is appropriate.  I’ve heard good things about “Mobil-1” synthetic oil as a heavy lubricant, but have never tried it.  I wouldn’t consider using either product as an external rust preventive if I could avoid doing so.

I still occasionally encounter someone who staunchly advocates "WD-40" as a rust preventive, usually in very large quantities (i.e., "drowning" the firearm in it--wood and all).  Back in the 1960s, when it was still quite a new product, I used it in rational quantities as a rust preventive in humid northern New York state.  It did work as such, more or less, and was probably the best alternative most of us had at the time.  I believe much better rust preventives are available now.  I still use WD-40 around the shop as a solvent when disassembling rusted mechanisms.  I've had similar experiences with true believers in "Kroil," most of whom also believe that if a little is good, a whole lot will be wonderful.  The stuff smells to high heaven and soaks into wood stocks very rapidly.  It remains my favorite product for attempting to loosen badly corroded steel assemblies.  I've also used it on an emergency basis to treat a couple of thoroughly rain-soaked revolvers that has to wait a couple of days before I could give them a proper cleaning.  I've never otherwise attempted to use it as a general rust preventive.   

Some shooters recommend the use of some type of wax as an external protectant, and I think that idea may have some merit.  I have an idea, though, that wax may attract some dust and debris, build up with subsequent applications, and then be much more necessary and difficult to remove than any oil.  I am an advocate of using some sort of rust-preventive wax on unexposed non-moving parts—e.g., parts of barrels covered by forends, inside surfaces of lock plates, undersides of butt plates, insides of barrel bands, etc.  Until a couple of years ago, I used plain Johnson’s yellow paste wax for the purpose.  I’ve recently switched to using “Renaissance Wax,” although I’ve no firsthand experience indicating that it is any better.

That’s my experience and what has worked for me.

 on: Yesterday at 09:51:02 pm 
Started by Driftwood Johnson - Last post by Driftwood Johnson

Thanks for the explanation!

 on: Yesterday at 09:48:10 pm 
Started by Rowdy Fulcher - Last post by Rowdy Fulcher
Pony Express
Hope things  are going good for your  Hunting .

 on: Yesterday at 09:07:54 pm 
Started by Dick Dastardly - Last post by Flatbush
Hey Dick, are those deer in your freezer yet?

This is the first time in many years I didn't get out deer hunting. I reckon this year I'll be eating Slim Jims from Pick N Save.

 on: Yesterday at 08:59:44 pm 
Started by Cemetery - Last post by Flatbush
I tried Larsen Pettifogger's "pin" technique on a pair of '51's and '60's I was using for shooting "Frontiersman" when I read about it in a 2008 edition of the SASS Cowboy Chronicle. They've been working great ever since!

 on: Yesterday at 08:11:13 pm 
Started by Crow Choker - Last post by Crow Choker
Sometime back a post was made with pictures and information about a museum (believe it was in Texas) displaying a number of original Colt Walkers and I believe some Dragoons. I went to "Search" and also checked out the last approx. three years worth of posts on Storm, Darksiders, Longbranch, and anyplace I thought the post would be to no avail. Anyone recall that post and know where it's at? Appreciate any help and I thank ya kindly.  Crow Choker

 on: Yesterday at 08:02:47 pm 
Started by Curley Cole - Last post by Monsai52
I just recently picked up this Cimarron Uberti Flat Top Target Bisley in 44-40.  This is my 1st Uberti SAA clone, and even though it's a little older (1998 vintage) I'm impressed with the quality of fit and finish.

Best regards,

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