Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
Special Interests - Groups & Societies => Frontier Iron => Topic started by: Cliff Fendley on May 22, 2017, 05:49:39 PM
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The bushing that the cylinder spins on. What holds it in the barrel?
And is it possible that it has worked out longer?
My wifes Schofield has seemed to have a much loader report lately and after looking it has a wider barrel/cylinder gap than others I'm looking at. I haven't measured the gap its just obvious.
The cylinder is being held out by the base pin bushing bottoming out in the cylinder. There is a noticeable gap between the front cylinder bushing area and the barrel.
The base pin bushing protrudes from the barrel around 15 thousandths more than my other Schofield. I'm wondering if the bushing should be shortened or if it is not all the way down in the barrel frame.
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I took a look at my navy arms and as best I can see it appears to be pressed in. Mine doesn't want to turn or push in or out. The cylinder has very little fore and aft play even when action is open. Does the cylinder spin freely?
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Yes it shoots and spins fine but the bushing bottoms out in the cylinders bore and makes for a wider barrel cylinder gap than on my other Schofield.
My other Schofield seems to ride against the front cylinder bushing but this one doesn't run against the barrel at all. There is a gap in the front of the cylinder.
I'm thinking it either needs to be shortened or pressed in farther.
The gun is EXTREMELY loud and even though it always has been noticeably louder I believe it's gotten worse which is why I was asking. I'm wondering if somehow it has backed out of the barrel causing more cylinder barrel gap.
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Only one way to find out for sure Cliff. Take it apart ;D
Coffinmaker
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Only one way to find out for sure Cliff. Take it apart ;D
Coffinmaker
I don't know how to get it apart ;D
Or at least I don't know how to get that bushing out without damaging it and I can't take a chance on that since it's my wife's gun. If I break it I'm in trouble :'(
I did give it a little persuasion and it didn't go in any farther.
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I doubt that I can be of help here, but isn't the rearward movement of the cylinder limited by the barrel block/cylinder catch? At least on my Schofield, the cylinder can't move forward because of the base pin bottoming out and it can't move rearward because of the cylinder catch. I must not be understanding what you're describing because it seems as if the cylinder couldn't be rearward or the action couldn't close.
CC Griff
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CCG. The gun is hard to close. You almost have to slam it closed to get the latch to catch.
Can someone give me the measurement of the base pin bushing on their Schofields? The length that it is from the barrel. There is a 12 thousandths difference on our two Schofields.
I'm pretty much convinced this one needs to be shorter I just don't know whether to shorten the back of it or if it is not seated completely in the barrel.
These are 44-40 if that matters.
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Is the top rear of the cylinder caught by the edges built into the cylinder catch?
Mine is a .45, but I'll try to measure it this evening when I get home.
CC Griff
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I doubt that I can be of help here, but isn't the rearward movement of the cylinder limited by the barrel block/cylinder catch? At least on my Schofield, the cylinder can't move forward because of the base pin bottoming out and it can't move rearward because of the cylinder catch. I must not be understanding what you're describing because it seems as if the cylinder couldn't be rearward or the action couldn't close.
+1
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Is the top rear of the cylinder caught by the edges built into the cylinder catch?
Mine is a .45, but I'll try to measure it this evening when I get home.
CC Griff
Yes. It's just that the front of the cylinder bushing does not touch the barrel at all and there is a wider than normal barrel cylinder gap. You can tell that the base pin bushing bottoms out in the cylinder. It also is hard to close which indicates the cylinder may need to be closer to the barrel.
As I mentioned the bushing sticks out of the barrel longer than the other Schofield we have. I'd just like to hear other measurements before I go to altering this one.
Thanks for any help
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Mine is 1.319" to the barrel face or 1.370" to the barrel were the cylinder rides.
Is there any signs of the base pin moving like a discolored area? Or is it possible that some thing got into the cylinder base pin hole?
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Mine is 1.319" to the barrel face or 1.370" to the barrel were the cylinder rides.
Is there any signs of the base pin moving like a discolored area? Or is it possible that some thing got into the cylinder base pin hole?
Thanks Kent. That is the same as my other Schofield. The one in question is around 1.382 +/-
Nothing in the hole holding it out. Even with the ejector removed it's the same. You can see down in the cylinder where it is bottoming out and riding on the base pin and you can tell by the end of the pin/bushing it is riding on it.
The barrel cylinder gap is .016 and there is a .010 gap between the front bushing part of the cylinder and the barrel.
One more thing, is there end shake on your cylinder when the gun is closed up? This problem gun has no end shake at all but my other one does have just a slight bit.
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OK, I measured my Schofield. Remember, mine is a .45, so there may be some differences.
From the barrel face, the length of the base pin is 1.312 +/-. From the area where the cylinder rides, it measures 1.357 +/-. There is a slight bushing on the front of the cylinder, which is what rides against the area around the base pin.
The barrel cylinder gap is VERY tight on mine, at least when the frame is closed and the hammer down. I thought that I might not have a feeler gauge thin enough to fit in there, but I finally got my .0025 gauge in between the cylinder and the barrel. There is no discernable end-shake when the frame is closed.
I don't know what the tolerances are for these revolvers, but those are some different measurements...
CC Griff
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Ok, Cliff, I'd like to back up a minute to be sure I understand something.
Has the Schofield in question always been louder or has it developed over time? The reason I ask is that I'm wondering if something has (become loose and) moved or if it was made that way (poor QC).
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Ok, Cliff, I'd like to back up a minute to be sure I understand something.
Has the Schofield in question always been louder or has it developed over time? The reason I ask is that I'm wondering if something has (become loose and) moved or if it was made that way (poor QC).
It has been louder for a long time, and I think always, but it seems to have gotten worse. To the point of people grabbing their ears and mentioning how loud it is at the shoots we go to.
The thing is I have tapped with some pretty good force and the base pin seems to be in the thing very tight so I can't see how it's moved.
According to my other gun and the measurements reported above this one does have a cylinder bushing that is too long. If I were to shorten it and let the front bushing area of the cylinder ride against the barrel that would leave a .006 barrel cylinder gap which is in line with my other gun. My only question is will it allow a bunch of cylinder end shake and if so is that a bad thing.
Since I can't get it out I'm real close to stoning the end of the bushing down to make it shorter.
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Have you talked to Uberti about it?
I had some real problems with mine, but didn't find them until after I'd had an action job done on it, voiding the warranty. If that's your case too, I'd say stone the bushing, you don't have much to loose. If it isn't the case I'd have Uberti do the work so as to keep it under warranty.
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It's an old 80's vintage Navy Arms marked gun she bought used a few years ago and it's been apart before. No chance of a warranty.
It's my wife's gun, I'm just trying to help her sort out the issue.
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Then you're not out anything to try stoning the end of the bushing
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Have you measured the cylinder to assure the counter bore is indeed shorter then the arbor?
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Have you measured the cylinder to assure the counter bore is indeed shorter then the arbor?
Yes.
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I have never been able to remove a a tightly fitting cylinder bushing without damaging it. What I would do if it were me is to take a piece of steel rod that is the diameter of the outside of the bushing (or slightly larger) and turn about one ince of the end of the rod so it is a sliding fit in the inside of the bushing. After double checking my measurements I would give the rod a couple of taps with a hammer. Remember this is taps, not whaling away on it. If it moves downward and seats in its hole in the barrel you are done. If it did not move I would remove some material off the end of the bushing. I would use a file or a faceing tool. A stone would take forever to stone down .015". Since the bushing is inside the cylinder and not visible even if the end of the bushing were not perfectly square it won't make any difference as you want some clearance between the end of the bushing and the bottom of the cylinder bore and no one will see if it is off a bit.