Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
CAS TOPICS => The Leather Shop => Topic started by: Johnny McCrae on November 01, 2013, 08:21:24 AM
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Recently I donated a gift certificate for a Holster that was used as a door prize at a shooting event in our area. Attached are pictures of the completed Holster. This is a cross draw Holster for a Uberti S&W Schofield Revolver with a 5-1/2" long barrel.
It was immersed in home brewed Walnut dye for two hours followed by two coats of Neets Foot Oil and Skidmores Leather Crème.
My Leather Work is the opposite of my good friend Kid Terrico's work. Everything I make looks the same. I've never seen KT make the same design twice. His recent post "Marshall heres the holster" is evidence of that. Wish I had that talent.
Here is a link to a slide show I made that demonstrates how I made the pattern for this Holster http://www.johnnymccrae.com/Holster_pattern.html
Most of my Holsters are lined and two ply of 4-5 oz. leather. One might have to adjust the pattern for different total thicknesses of leather.
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Johnny...looks great
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Very informative slide-show. 8)
I've been using a similar procedure for several years now. It's so simple that even a clutz like me can do it. ;)
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Nice holster~I can't make em..You a good man Johnny,i know it for a fact! :) :) :)
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Good work Johnny.
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Well done Johnny, this is sure to help a lot of pards getting started in leather with there holster making, thanks for sharing your talent.. :D ;D.
tEN wOLVES ;D
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Johnny nice holster. I always like your colors. Remember if your making a great holster why change? Keep up the nice work. KT
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That's a good guide for making a holster. Thanks for sharing it with us, Johnny. That should save a lot of head scratching for many. The photos alone are explanatory. The steps outlined on the right just add to the ease of understanding. Thumbs-up.
I included a link to this thread in our HOW-TO thread so others can find it easily in the future.
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terrific work, Johnny. Love the step-by-step.
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Here's a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkE01G8PLwQ) on how to make a pattern from scratch by Richard Black.
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Wouldn't it be easier to just cut out both sides at once, so they perfectly match? That's how I do it. If the holster is asymmetrical, I cut the mainseam all together and then unfold to cut the areas that are different between the two sides.
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Wouldn't it be easier to just cut out both sides at once, so they perfectly match? That's how I do it. If the holster is asymmetrical, I cut the mainseam all together and then unfold to cut the areas that are different between the two sides.
I have yet to get a perfect match of both sides if they're cut in advance. For some reason, the two pieces drift off slightly when stitched. By leaving the back one until after it's stitched, you can trim it exactly to match the front side. Then when you burnish it, you have a nice smooth edge along the whole seam.
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I do the same as Marshal. Leave the back just a little proud and then sand down evenly with a belt sander after they are together.
When making a pattern I fold and cut both main seams at the same time. Most of my holster patterns are made from file folders
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I was talking about the pattern, not the leather.
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I didn't realize you were talking about the pattern. In that case, yes, the way you do it is fine.
For the holster itself, I now have a spindle/belt sander that I'm itching to try on leather. It should be a good way to make seams smooth for burnishing.
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Good for you Will, the spindle sander works great, just make light passes so it doesn't eat up took much leather, because it can and will..
tEN wOLVES. ;D
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I didn't realize you were talking about the pattern. In that case, yes, the way you do it is fine.
For the holster itself, I now have a spindle/belt sander that I'm itching to try on leather. It should be a good way to make seams smooth for burnishing.
I use a spindle sander Will. You'll love it.
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Good for you Will, the spindle sander works great, just make light passes so it doesn't eat up took much leather, because it can and will..
tEN wOLVES. ;D
Yeah, I can see that. If you push hard on it, it can take a piece of wood right out of your hand. Sure works like a charm if used right. I'll remember that when I try it on leather.
I use a spindle sander Will. You'll love it.
Thanks. I'm looking forward to it. I got it to make guitar bodies. So far, it's quite impressive.
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I use a bench belt sander to even up the edges before beveling, slicking, burnishing and buffing. If you press too hard not only will you take too much off but it will start burning the material, which causes discoloration.
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I can see how it would burn the leather. I've done that with a dremel and expect that the spindle sander would do the same.
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It's a whole lot easier to burn it with the Dremel, because of the speed. Not much risk with the bench sander, if you keep it moving, which results in a smoother finish anyway.