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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  RATS (Moderator: Mustang Gregg)  |  Topic: Beating myself up: rust pitting in my vaquero 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Beating myself up: rust pitting in my vaquero  (Read 1505 times)
Doug.38PR
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« on: February 07, 2018, 12:35:52 am »


Last time I shot pyrodex in my .45 new vaquero, I DILLIGENTLY for two hours scrubbed down that gun with soap, hot water and breakfree.   Especially the bore.    It was shiny and clean as a whistle.   That was back around halloween.
Pulled it out if holster yesterday, looked diwn tge bore and there was a dirty spot on a place in the bottom about an inch inside from the force cone.  
Bore snake dry
Hobbs bore cleaner with patch
Bore snake againagainagainagainetc.
Bronze bristle brush
Bore snake
Hobbs oil with patch pushed through
Bronze bristle brush
Patcg pushed through dry
Lewis Lead Remover Kit pulled through several times
Ajax soap desgreaser on patch pushed through
Wet cold water patch pushed through
Dry patch pushed through
Hobbs oil patch pushed through
Dry patch pushed through  

Several above repeated and scrubbed multiple times

End result.  Bore shiny and clean except that one little spot that has a light wrinkle discolored spot.  The spot seems even with the metal no burs sticking up.  Just a tad of pitting

Probably won’t affect the accuracy of the gun.  The gun is a workhorse but it just irritates me because I was so dilligent.  

Any other ideas?  
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greyhawk
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2018, 03:55:00 pm »

Last time I shot pyrodex in my .45 new vaquero, I DILLIGENTLY for two hours scrubbed down that gun with soap, hot water and breakfree.   Especially the bore.    It was shiny and clean as a whistle.   That was back around halloween.
Pulled it out if holster yesterday, looked diwn tge bore and there was a dirty spot on a place in the bottom about an inch inside from the force cone.  
Bore snake dry
Hobbs bore cleaner with patch
Bore snake againagainagainagainetc.
Bronze bristle brush
Bore snake
Hobbs oil with patch pushed through
Bronze bristle brush
Patcg pushed through dry
Lewis Lead Remover Kit pulled through several times
Ajax soap desgreaser on patch pushed through
Wet cold water patch pushed through
Dry patch pushed through
Hobbs oil patch pushed through
Dry patch pushed through  

Several above repeated and scrubbed multiple times

End result.  Bore shiny and clean except that one little spot that has a light wrinkle discolored spot.  The spot seems even with the metal no burs sticking up.  Just a tad of pitting

Probably won’t affect the accuracy of the gun.  The gun is a workhorse but it just irritates me because I was so dilligent.  

Any other ideas?  

yep  sell yr pyrodex cheap to someone ya dont like and get some real  gunpowder
same thing (similar anyways) happened to me twenty years ago with a muzzle loader rifle
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Doug.38PR
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2018, 09:13:11 pm »

yep  sell yr pyrodex cheap to someone ya dont like and get some real  gunpowder
same thing (similar anyways) happened to me twenty years ago with a muzzle loader rifle


I’m looking for a place in Houston that has real black powder like Goex
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kwilliams1876
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2018, 01:11:50 pm »

i have to agree......get rid of the pyrodex. bought a can 35 yrs ago just to try it, and still have 3/4 lb left. hard to beat goex for every day shooting.
best
kw
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Mustang Gregg
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2018, 02:37:16 pm »

Those are my results too. 
Hard to clean them up well enough to prevent corrosion.
I use Pyrodex in a brass "noisemaker" cannon only.

MG
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2018, 08:32:59 pm »


AH YEP.  PLUS ONE to Greyhawk.   Grin   And anyone else says get rid of the PYRO.  If you have trouble finding BP go looking for either Black MZ or APP.

You may remember having seen it mentioned once or twice ..... Pyrodex ..... SUCKS!!  It's a corrosive rusting agent that also burns.
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Baltimore Ed
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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2018, 09:18:49 pm »

Not to hijack anything but we are talking about gun damage. Has anyone gotten damage to their s/s guns from ebony grips? I installed ajax or eagle, don't remember which, checkered ebony grips on my s/s vaqueros after I got them and have developed damage to the grip frame from the grips. The guns were in some humidity at times as my safe was on my screened porch until it was enclosed.
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"Give'em hell, Pike"
Doug.38PR
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« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2018, 09:45:08 pm »

Not to hijack anything but we are talking about gun damage. Has anyone gotten damage to their s/s guns from ebony grips? I installed ajax or eagle, don't remember which, checkered ebony grips on my s/s vaqueros after I got them and have developed damage to the grip frame from the grips. The guns were in some humidity at times as my safe was on my screened porch until it was enclosed.

My vaquero grips are plastic or wood.  I have spanish rosewood grips on mine now.    I wanted to get some stag grips as well as SAAify the action but have had second thoughts since this rust appeared.   
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2018, 02:22:30 pm »

I normally don't pay much attention to RATS as I can't/don't shoot Rugers worth spit.  Also unless I'm just being snarky, I try not to drop in some crass meaningless drivel.  Unless I'm really bored.  BUTT:

Doug.38 mentions SAAifying the action on his Ruger(s).  WARNING WILL ROBINSON .... WARNING .... WARNING.  There are several ways to do this.  Some lustrum ago, the most common method was to add a "half cock" by welding and cutting an additional ledge in the hammer.  Half Cock.  Then Remove the Transfer Bar and weld up the striker portion of the hammer.  Neat.  Simple.  A WIDOW MAKER.  The "Half Cock" was not a "notch" is was/can be just a LEDGE.  A ledge just like FULL COCK.  Think "short stroke."  So when on half cock, loading, were one to touch the trigger, the hammer would/will fall .... BANG!!  DO NOT entrust your Ruger to someone whom uses this method.  EVER.

The Hammer needs welded up and real actual notches cut.  NOT ledges .... NOTCHES.  Then the trigger need reshaped to fit the new notches.  Weld up the striker of the hammer and presto changeo >> a Coltized Ruger.  One just might find, it much quicker, easier, and cheaper to buy a brandy new GW II by Pietta (I really like Stainless) and have ready access to OEM parts should repair be necessary??

Serious Thought and Research is NECESSARY
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Baltimore Ed
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« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2018, 03:49:20 pm »

Don't know if I've ever heard of doing that to a Ruger. Sounds like a whole lot of trouble for nothing. Colts are Colts, weather real or imitation, Rugers are Rugers. Nobody makes imitation Rugers. But whatever you do don't make your Ruger unsafe. At some point somebody else will own them.
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"Give'em hell, Pike"
Lumpy Grits
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« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2018, 07:57:35 pm »

Run a 100 rnds of jacketed bullets down that bore, and things will look better.
Get rid of that crap wanna-be black powder, and get some Goex Old 'E' 2F.
Use Windex multi-surface with vinegar for cleaning.
Good luck,
LG
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treebeard
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« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2018, 05:59:27 pm »

Doug— you might keep an eye out for Civil War reenactments and Rendevous in your area as they often have sutlers that sell some real blackpowder.  It has worked for me in the past. Good Luck!
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2018, 02:02:53 pm »

Baltimore Ed .......

I were just sitting here lamenting the end of televised Olympic coverage (nothing on TV now) and getting a really good chuckle from your post.  "Nobody makes imitation Rugers."  I thought that just so darn KOOL!!  Then I had a thought (Oh .... the PAIN .... the AGONY).  This ones' gonna take a whole bottle of Aspirin to fix.

There "is" an imitation Ruger.  Another SA with a Transfer Bar ignition system.  Pietta makes it.  Surenuff xfer bar ignition.  It doesn't work exactly the same, but real close (Xfer Bar).  Yep ...... Surenuff imitation Ruger.  I are amazdilated.  I also seem to remember another SA with Xfer Bar but memory fails.  I don't remember who made it.  Durn (Bruce Durn??)
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Rye Miles
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« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2018, 08:54:07 pm »

Baltimore Ed .......

I were just sitting here lamenting the end of televised Olympic coverage (nothing on TV now) and getting a really good chuckle from your post.  "Nobody makes imitation Rugers."  I thought that just so darn KOOL!!  Then I had a thought (Oh .... the PAIN .... the AGONY).  This ones' gonna take a whole bottle of Aspirin to fix.

There "is" an imitation Ruger.  Another SA with a Transfer Bar ignition system.  Pietta makes it.  Surenuff xfer bar ignition.  It doesn't work exactly the same, but real close (Xfer Bar).  Yep ...... Surenuff imitation Ruger.  I are amazdilated.  I also seem to remember another SA with Xfer Bar but memory fails.  I don't remember who made it.  Durn (Bruce Durn??)

My friend had a Hawes Western Marshall in .44 mag with a transfer bar. Is that what you were thinking of? He passed away 2 years ago and I wanted that gun, it was the first single action I ever shot and he was a really good friend. His brother-in-law wound up with it.

Rye
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2018, 10:24:25 pm »

Hey Doug:

Almost forgot.  Firing Jacket bullets down the bore won't fix anything.  It may leave enough guilding metal in the Pitts to camouflage the pitting a little bit.
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