Javascript DHTML Drop Down Menu Powered by dhtml-menu-builder.com
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
November 24, 2017, 05:20:54 pm

Login with username, password and session length

Search:     Advanced search
* Home FlashChat Help Calendar Login Register
Currently there are 0 Users in the Cas City Chat Rooms!
Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  USFA CSS (Moderator: Capt. John Fitzgerald)  |  Topic: wearing out the trigger and hammer 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] Go Down Print
Author Topic: wearing out the trigger and hammer  (Read 257 times)
LonesomePigeon
Top Active Citizen
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 278


« on: October 29, 2017, 10:43:52 am »


  So I was reading this website, http://www.classicsingleaction.com/opinion Scroll down to the first paragraph of the section on Action Work & Gun Cleaning, wherin he says:

 "Quality action work keeps the gun from wearing out as fast and increases accuracy considerably. A lighter mainspring is essential to saving the trigger sear and having more accurate shots. I have fixed or replaced hundreds of triggers and hammers than have been worn out by heavy flat mainsprings. Get those Jeep springs out of there if you want your guns to last!"

Scroll down a little farther to see the pictures of a worn out trigger and hammer.
 
I would like to hear some opinions or experiences on how the above statement relates to the 100% American made USFA's. I have one and yes it does have a rather heavy mainspring but I like it. I think it is the best action I have ever felt, with the caveate that I am not "racing" the gun. I just shoot paper and steel at the range and have never used it for CAS/SASS. My question is, do I really need to replace the mainspring with a lighter one in order to prevent damage to the trigger and hammer?
Logged
St. George
Deputy Marshal
Top Active Citizen
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4510


NCOWS , GAF, B.O.L.D., Order of St. George, SOCOM,


« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2017, 11:42:55 am »

No.

He's drumming up business, just like all of the guys offering 'action jobs' that are merely the substitution of spring kits readily available from Brownell's.

 However - 'do' look over the internals of 'your' piece, and look for burring and rubbing on high spots - remove them by stoning, clean, lube and reassemble.

'You' can handle pretty much everything all by your lonesome, when armed with a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book and patience.

Scouts Out!
Logged

"It Wasn't Cowboys and Ponies - It Was Horses and Men.
It Wasn't Schoolboys and Ladies - It Was Cowtowns and Sin..."
Coffinmaker
Top Active Citizen
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4269


« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2017, 12:36:17 pm »


YES!!!  With a CAVEAT.  Maybe several CAVEAT.  The loudest argument on the planet.  "These guns lasted 130 years" and that would be correct.  Most of which only fired 50 to 100 rounds in those 130 years.  The OEM springs in ALL the reproductions are too heavy.

The OEM springs in most reproductions are too heavy (already said that).  WAY too heavy.  Replacing/fitting new reduced power Springs will give your SA a longer life expectancy.  Reduce wear of critical parts and just make the gun more user friendly.  I did say "most."  I actually like and use the Pietta Trigger Bolt Spring for action work.  Not too heavy and super reliable, giving a nice crisp feel to the action.  I use to grind Main Springs.  I hate the taste of ground steel (uck) and have found two really good after-market replacements.  I like the reduced power Main Spring from VTI GUNPARTS and I like the "Lee's Gunsmithing Gunslinger" springs from Brownells.  Work a treat.  Do understand those heavy main springs also serve to mask poor manufacturing and poor fit.  First take the gun apart and clean up any burrs and machine tool marks.  The drag of poor fit is not conducive to a harmonious outcome.
Logged
45 Dragoon
Citizen
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 23


« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2017, 01:34:23 pm »

Yup, + 1 to CM

A "tuning" isn't a simple change of springs (or tweaking of those installed) or a polishing of wear spots. It includes that and removing stress areas that prolong the life of the part. Imparting the correct tension on a bolt so that it won't dig a trench in the cylinder. Adjusting the timing which will also protect cylinder locking notches. Shaping the bolt head which will also save the notches.  Adjusting the cam height/surface so that that "too Iight aftermarket spring I put in" WILL work ( you just need to know why it won't work)!  It also involves the parameters that the owner may want such as a particular hammer draw weight or trigger pull which you could call a "custom" setup. 
  Just goes to show "tuning" is more than just being a parts changer. There's a lot more to it than what's mentioned above .  .  .  .  especially if you're doing a matching pair!!

Mike
Logged

www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @goonsgunworks
Pages: [1] Go Up Print 
Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  USFA CSS (Moderator: Capt. John Fitzgerald)  |  Topic: wearing out the trigger and hammer « previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.049 seconds with 21 queries.