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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  CAS TOPICS  |  Gunsmithing  |  Topic: Modify Walker recoil shield? 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Modify Walker recoil shield?  (Read 1586 times)
OD#3
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« on: October 19, 2017, 10:22:18 pm »


So I'm working on a new Uberti Walker.  Before I addressed the rough action, I've been taking care of the usual Uberti longevity/reliability fixes.  I tackled the arbor length first, and it turned out well.  I'm currently finishing up the installation and fitting of a cap rake, and then it is on to the loading lever catch.  But I've been wondering about the right side of the recoil shield.  Since the Walker lacks the groove between the hammer slot and the capping cutout on the right side of the frame, am I likely to get cap jams despite my cap rake?  Does anyone here modify their Walkers by adding that groove?
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2017, 10:10:21 am »

Hey OD  Grin

I normally don't chime in unless I have something meaningful to contribute.  Unless of course I'm being facetious (sorta like now).  But over the years, nobody ever brought me a Walker.  Which is OK with me, as I have enough trouble with a Hernia.  I'd be more concerned with the Carriage and Trails for that cannon  Roll Eyes

There is a fella I shoot with that shoots a pair of Walkers .... Gunfighter no less.  Shocked   As far as I know, his guns have not been modified with the Cap Channel.  Other than needing a "Gun Bearer" he doesn't seem to have problems other than normal Cap Jams (no rake). 

I think before I would consider milling the recoil shield I'd have to run the guns some to see if it was even needed.  Using Slix nipples, normally the Caps stay on the nipples until removed at the unloading table.  Normally, the rake prevents the cap from coming completely off the nipple.   That might not be the case if running a reduced Main Spring and full house loads (lotta oomph there).  I don't think I'd bother adding the Cap Channel until I ran the gun some.  Oh, you might also need a Cason for enough powder  Grin
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OD#3
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2017, 10:28:38 am »

Thanks for the advice and the reminder about Slix nipples.  I'd forgotten that those were on my list of "things to buy" for my 1851 as well.  After I'd installed the cap rake on my 1851, I tested it by popping caps sans powder and ball.  The rake kept the cap heads on the nipple, but the cap bodies were "banana-peeled" so badly, that they tended to jam up a little on the water table during cylinder rotation.  I've never used Slix nipples before, but I read and hear that they mostly prevent this.

I was hoping you'd be one to chime in here, and you didn't disappoint.  Informative and very entertaining as usual.  Thanks!
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2017, 02:31:54 pm »


It is likely, even with Slix, you will get the occasional jam at the Water Table.  Normally (normal being a setting on the dryer) with Slix the cap splits into three "leaves" with the leaves remaining in the nipple recess.  Once in a blue moon or so, I get the ubiquitous hang up at the water table.  I can count those on one hand over three or four seasons.

However ....... let us not forget Murphy.  We're talking Cap Guns here.  Murphy's First Law of Cap Guns clearly states,  "If it Can go Wrong, It Will" further clarified by "At the Worst possible Time."  Such as, a Walker loading lever only drops during firing when it is aligned with a chamber and so jams up the whole works.

As you progress with your Walker, I can get you a real good deal on a Chain Fall and Engine Hoist  Roll Eyes
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Gabriel Law
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« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2017, 07:27:12 pm »

My Uberti  Walker (serial number 00032) imported by Canadian Firearms Mfg. here in Prince George BC, has only had one alteration.  That was to replace the stock nipples with replacements from TOW.  It fires flawlessly, and does not have jamming issues.  I use 53 gr. FFg GOEX and CCI #11 caps, and a ball from a .460" Lee mold.
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OD#3
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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2017, 08:11:18 pm »

Well, I finally shot this Walker yesterday, and I'm happy to report that I won't need to make any alterations to the recoil shield.  I do plan to get some Slix Shot nipples for it eventually, but I didn't have any trouble with the OEM nipples on this outing.  I fired about 8 cylinders full, and the cap rake prevented any jams at all.  With the exception of one cylinder, all were close to 58-60 grain charges under a .457 ball, as I wanted to test the "conventional wisdom" that heavy charges would batter the wedge.  I don't know how many heavy loads it usually takes to batter a wedge, but mine came out of the ordeal looking pristine after 42 heavy loads.

I've a theory that, if the arbor isn't bottomed out, the barrel assembly can vibrate up and down during firing, which might contribute to those battered Walker wedges I always read about. 

Coffinmaker has been teasing me about the heavy moving equipment I'll need to invest in just to hold and tote this thing around, but I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of recoil; 4 lbs soaks almost all of it up.  I was also shooting a .36 cal. Colt Navy replica yesterday, and the scale difference between the two seemed to be almost directly proportional to the recoil generated by their loads.  In other words, the feel of the Walker recoil wasn't all that different from the .36 Navy, and I was shooting both one-handed. 

I need to shoot this more while I'm still relatively young, though; I can see where arthritic joints might have difficulty with the heft, as one's trigger finger is having to bear quite a bit of lateral weight just to hold the thing level.
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Professor Marvel
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« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2017, 09:08:26 pm »

I need to shoot this more while I'm still relatively young, though; I can see where arthritic joints might have difficulty with the heft, as one's trigger finger is having to bear quite a bit of lateral weight just to hold the thing level.

My Good OD -

thanks for the initial post and follow ups. I enjoy reading of everyone's projects.

reagarding the weight, instead of being a passive shooter and trying to hold the monster level and steady,
one could let it hang straight down, then swing it up like a pedulum, touching off the trigger as it comes up to the target :-)

yhs
prof mumbles
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2017, 09:14:57 am »


AH ....Well ..... My Good Perfesser   Shocked

Kind of think about that just fer a second er two.  At the bottom of it's swing (The Walker) think about where and with what it is aligned??

A FOUR POUND pendulum swinging freely (should you happen to lose yer grip) ??  I shudder at the thought ..... actually.
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Professor Marvel
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« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2017, 03:36:51 pm »

AH ....Well ..... My Good Perfesser   Shocked

Kind of think about that just fer a second er two.  At the bottom of it's swing (The Walker) think about where and with what it is aligned??

A FOUR POUND pendulum swinging freely (should you happen to lose yer grip) ??  I shudder at the thought ..... actually.

Ah yes! there you go, Coffin, - spoiling the Beauty of a Thing with Common Sense!

yhs
prof stupid
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LonesomePigeon
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« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2017, 04:00:52 pm »

 "I've a theory that, if the arbor isn't bottomed out, the barrel assembly can vibrate up and down during firing, which might contribute to those battered Walker wedges I always read about."

I agree and I would add that the cylinder gap probably plays a big part as well. I would think the larger the gap the harder the cylinder hits the forcing cone. Really, it would seem there a lot of critical points on an open top design. The bottom of the barrel lug where it connects to the two pins in the frame nose, as well.
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45 Dragoon
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« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2017, 08:14:14 pm »

  The barrel/ cyl clearance is defiantly connected to the open top's ability to beat itself up!! I've been stressing for years now that a close tolerance setup there will pretty much eliminate that from happening.

   I have addressed the barrel lug/ frame pin area as well. It is a reverse tapered pin that positively locks the simple butt joint there. It's called a "Lug Lock " and it gives you a truly solid connection when used.

Mike
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