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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  1860 Henry (Moderators: Flint, Major 2)  |  Topic: Jumping Back In - Have Questions 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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SFC
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« on: October 06, 2017, 09:18:14 am »


I am getting back into CAS after a 20 year break.  I love the 1860 Henry and plan to buy one tomorrow.  I remember buying a new Uberti 1860 Henry over 20 years ago. I disassembled it and remember a few things about the rifle.

1.  The internal workings of the receiver were full of brass shavings and gunk.

2.  I buggered every screw during disassembly.  Where is a good source for replacement HARDENED screws  Are the screws in the 1860 Henry and 1866 the same?

3.  The carrier springs were very stiff.  Where do I find lighter springs?

I plan to remove the glossy finish on the buttstock and just apply a matte oil finish.  Any tips for removing the buttstock?

THANKS!
  
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2017, 12:01:28 pm »

HEY SFC!!

Welcome back to the fold.  The Answers.

You may find the receiver will still have a small amount of machine swarf.  The wrist is now cast solid and machined so it isn't full of casting sand and machine oil.  There will be some gunk under the main spring and where the lever side springs sit.  Fun to get it all out.

Most folks bugger the screws.  First and foremost, go to Brownells and get a set magna tip screwdrivers.  Then get a quarter inch drive impact driver.  Take the screws out with the impact driver (clamp the rifle down).  You may still have trouble removing the Lever Side Screws.  Because they haven't been fit to the frame.  If you push the hook end of the spring out of the frame, the screws are much easier to remove.  Once out for the first time, the OEM screws are just fine.  VTI Gunparts has a nice set of hardened screws.  Yes.  The screws in the 1866 and Henry are the same.

My suggestion for Lever Side Springs (both carrier and lever) is a set of SlixSprings.  They will require some minor fitting at the hook end to clearance the side plates.  Don't forget.  You can SHAVE with the edges of the Side Plates.  For a lighter Main Spring I would suggest either Slick Magic or The Smith Shop.  A combination of the side springs and the main spring will make an unbelievable difference.

Simply remove the screws retaining the Buttstock and gently nudge it back and fourth whilst pulling it away from the receiver.  Once you remove the OEM finish, I would suggest Satin Spar Varnish for maximum protection of the stock.  Oil finishes aren't really "finishes" and don't provide much protection of the wood.
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Blackpowder Burn
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« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2017, 02:28:21 pm »

You might also consider a Henry from Henry USA.  The cost isn't much different these days.  Mine shoots and functions well straight from the box.

I'm also very impressed with their customer service.  See my post above on Outstanding Henry Service for the sad story of my FUBAR and their repair.
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SUBLYME AND HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT
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« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2017, 03:43:14 pm »

I'm down to 3  as of  3 months ago....

I'll agree with BB.....  mine was smooth & 0 issue out of the box....

The Uberti is about $400-600 less.... but ....you won't beat  HRA  Service , 

No dog in the fight, I have both,  your money your choice ....

Read my Review , in the Sticky section this BB


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Cliff Fendley
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« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2017, 11:16:04 pm »

You may get lucky one not bugger the screws with a 1/4 impact driver and magna tips. I can usually succeed. The main ones to give you trouble will likely be the lever spring screws.
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2017, 09:12:18 am »

PLUS ONE to Cliff .......

When I did this stuff for a living, I lost count of the number of Lever Side Springs I wound up having to replace.  There were some I actually twisted a Magna Tip like a piece of Pasta and the screw didn't budge (Push it out of the frame).  Some had to be drilled out.  Horror stories.  Bongo (Uberti's pet Gorilla) can really tighten screws.

This has created a little niche market for Hardened screw sets.  Kicker is, once the screws have been removed WITHOUT being buggered up, they (OEM screws) are just fine.  Rule # 1.  Never ever torque dry threads.  Bad JUJU there.  Hardened screws aren't a bad idea for screws that are removed/loosened frequently.

Something I forgot to mention (oops).  Once the lever side springs are out, if not being replaced (bad choice) outright, the rear of the spring boss MUST be shaped (file) to fit the radius at the frame or the spring will just set catiwumpus again and will NOT seat properly in the frame.
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Forty Rod
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« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2017, 03:10:48 pm »

Be very careful removing the side plates,  They slide in and out and the edges are sharp enough to put Kershaw knives to shame.
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2017, 12:14:39 pm »

It doesn't hurt to "fit" the Side Plates so they just slide in and out with simple finger pressure (CAREFULLY).  HOWEVER, don't even THINK about it if you don't have the right tools and equipment.  EASILY ruined and a replacement has in the past been nothing more than a slab of Brass.
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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  1860 Henry (Moderators: Flint, Major 2)  |  Topic: Jumping Back In - Have Questions « previous next »
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