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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  USFA CSS (Moderator: Capt. John Fitzgerald)  |  Topic: China Camp 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Tascosa Joe
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« on: September 27, 2017, 09:33:04 am »


Cabela's in Ft Worth has 3 China Camp in varying barrel lengths.  All priced about 2K.  I have no dog in the fight, I just thought I would inform the group. 
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Capt. John Fitzgerald
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« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2017, 05:03:36 pm »

Thanks, Tascosa!
I am "hell and gone" from Ft. Worth (Seattle) but hope that one or more of our members are close enough to look into it.
The China Camp models were finely tuned handguns that were regulated to point of aim. As for USFA's "patented silver steel finish," it was nothing more than highly polished carbon steel with no more rust resistance than one would expect. 
Still... the China Camp model is perfect for bluing, CCH, and engraving if you are looking to create a truly personal SAA.  Correct me if I am wrong here, but I believe that one among us (Yahoody) has actually done this.
Even if you leave it alone, it is a unique, desireable USFA to own.
CJF
 
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yahoody
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2017, 07:21:51 pm »

My China Camps are still original steel, in the white.  They shoot too good to risk taking them apart for the finish work.
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LonesomePigeon
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« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2017, 09:42:33 am »

I've wondered about that, if taking a gun apart might change the POA-POI. Can you do a full nickel or full blue finish without removing the barrel?
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Capt. John Fitzgerald
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« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2017, 05:38:26 pm »

Lonesome,
Good question, and again I defer to Yahoody.  I would assume that an "all blue finish" would not require a complete disassembly (barrel from frame) of your China Camp. Nickel  plating (my favorite) might be just a bit more problematic.  There might be a need to separate barrel from frame in order properly plate both parts.
CJF
 
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yahoody
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« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2017, 02:49:30 pm »

Quote from: LonesomePigeon
I've wondered about that, if taking a gun apart might change the POA-POI. Can you do a full nickel or full blue finish without removing the barrel?

Sorry, late to the party.  Yes taking the barrel off  will change the POI/POA unless the smith is extremely diligent about marking the  frame and barrel and then very carefully putting the SAA guns back together exactly as it  came apart.  Having  seen dozens of SAAs taken apart for engraving and-or refinish work my experience is few  can be bothered or care about guns ..."most don't actually shoot anyway."    That simple lack of detailing is the end result I have seen no matter who is involved or the price tag of the finished product.

You can full blue or nickel (antique or electroless nickel are better answers here but still not the best way to do  a refinish) with out removing the barrels but it  is a half assed job that a really good refinisher wouldn't generally offer or accept.

Here I a classic example of " the best" workmanship when it comes to putting a Colt back together and what it takes to get right again.
To get it right you'll need ammo, patience and a good barrel vise.  Easier than it sounds for sure.   It's not pretty and really disappointing on what should be an heirloom gun out of the box for the price.   How the gun shot as delivered from the engraver/refinish on the left.  On the right is after turning the barrel back to vertical where it started out from Colt.   How the gun was delivered is nothing more than basic pistol smithing work done at a rank beginner's level.  But the targets should give you an idea of what refinishing a good gun puts at risk.



This is a 25 yard target I shot, sitting,  over the top of my range bag from our China Camp in 32-20.  I don't know of anyone including myself that I would trust to pull this barrel and screw it back on for this kind of POA/POI accuracy.  So I just take the time to rub the bare metal down with some oil to keep rust at bay.  That plan has been working for over a decade now, so good enough I guess.
 


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LonesomePigeon
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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2017, 09:31:38 pm »

Thank you for the response. I am considering a project. Nothing expensive though. I have a Uberti Flattop Target .44-40 7.5" on Lay-A-Way. The factory finish is typical blue and acid bath type color case hardening. I am thinking of redoing it in a full rust blue and giving it a set of synthetic ivory grips. Most of the original Flattops were full blue, that's why I want to do it.
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yahoody
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« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2017, 10:43:23 pm »

I think you'll be surprised at the cost of a real rust blue job.  Done right it will be way more money than the Uberti cost.  Worth asking that they not pull the barrel  and see what they have to say.

A nice hot blue job won't break the bank by comparison.   I've been very happy with Mel Doyle's work.
Mel Doyles Gunshop 401 Ellis Lane Plummer Idaho 83851 Ph. 208-686-1006
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LonesomePigeon
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« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2017, 09:46:57 am »

Actually, I was thinking of doing the rust blue myself. Somewhere on here, I think in the SAA Clone forum, there is a thread about rust bluing.
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yahoody
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« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2017, 10:51:21 am »

sounds like a fun project
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Tascosa Joe
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2017, 09:46:13 am »

Actually, I was thinking of doing the rust blue myself. Somewhere on here, I think in the SAA Clone forum, there is a thread about rust bluing.
Check the LC Smith Collectors Assoc web site.  They have some good info on rust blueing.  LCSmith.org
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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  USFA CSS (Moderator: Capt. John Fitzgerald)  |  Topic: China Camp « previous next »
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