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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  1860 Henry (Moderators: Flint, Major 2)  |  Topic: 1860 Henry lever springs 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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reno
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« on: June 07, 2017, 04:17:54 pm »


Why are the right lever springs so hard to loosen. The left ones come loose easy, buy I can't loosen the right one, and afraid I will bugger up the screw, and I'am using the correct screwdriver, any help?
Thanks
Reno
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2017, 08:24:23 pm »

Sure.  But first a word from our sponsors.  Normal is to have BOTH lever springs impossible to get out.  But, there are several reasons.  Reason number one is the spring boss (rear) is not fit to the arch of the frame window which causes the spring to "cock" when the screw is tightened down, binding the threads.  This is actually the same on both sides.  The spring is too heavy.  SO:  Use a 1/4 inch impact driver to loosen the screw with a properly fitted screwdriver bit.  Sometimes that doesn't get it either.  SO:  With the side plates off, push the spring out of the frame to the side, which takes all the binding off the screw and makes the screw removable.

If you plan to re-use the OEM springs ..... first clamp up the spring and arch the back of the spring boss to closely match the arch of the frame window.  Thin down the spring to reduce it's pressure.  OR:  Put the OEM spring(s) in a safe place (like a trash can) and replace them with SlixSpring lever side springs.  Some fitting required.

Coffinmaker
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Pettifogger
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« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2017, 10:50:50 pm »

Sure.  But first a word from our sponsors.  Normal is to have BOTH lever springs impossible to get out.  But, there are several reasons.  Reason number one is the spring boss (rear) is not fit to the arch of the frame window which causes the spring to "cock" when the screw is tightened down, binding the threads.  This is actually the same on both sides.  The spring is too heavy.  SO:  Use a 1/4 inch impact driver to loosen the screw with a properly fitted screwdriver bit.  Sometimes that doesn't get it either.  SO:  With the side plates off, push the spring out of the frame to the side, which takes all the binding off the screw and makes the screw removable.

If you plan to re-use the OEM springs ..... first clamp up the spring and arch the back of the spring boss to closely match the arch of the frame window.  Thin down the spring to reduce it's pressure.  OR:  Put the OEM spring(s) in a safe place (like a trash can) and replace them with SlixSpring lever side springs.  Some fitting required.

Coffinmaker

+1.  Stuck lever and carrier spring screws are the most common gripe with new Ubertis.  Once you have gotten them out the first time they are a lot easier to work with after that.  Smart thing is to junk the truck leaf springs in the stock guns.
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reno
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« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2017, 06:13:37 am »

Thanks to both of you. I have the Slixsprings but have to get the screws out first.
Thanks again,
Reno
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kwilliams1876
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« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2017, 07:57:22 am »

geeze
alot of you guys sound like salesman for the slix company! no doubt a good product, but believe it or not,  there are some of us who can re work the original springs to achieve the smoothness we crave. been doing it for years.
just sayin'
kw
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2017, 02:30:02 pm »

Geeze .....

There are a lot MORE guys who are not conversant with spring grinding 101 and need a simple fix.  So ..... some of us who realize just telling someone to tune a spring is not gonna help a whole lot.  So we suggest a commercially available solution.  So how many of these folks who need help you gonna grind springs for??
just sayin'

Coffinmaker

PS: I also do a pretty fair sales job for "The Smith Shop" whisper springs.  just sayin'
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reno
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« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2017, 03:57:35 pm »

Coffinmaker and Pettieffoger, thanks for the tips as always. I tried to get the screws loose, but one would not move. I have done a lot of work on my own guns for years and did not want to mess up the screw, but took a chance and unscrewed the lever screw to where it was out on the right side, and with a brass punch pushed it out the left side. I was able to take the right side plate off, and then the left side, turned the lever springs out at both sides like you said and they unscrewed easy. Cleaned things up and reassembled, only did not tighten like the gorillia at Uberti, just snug, functions perfect, and will check when cleaning the rifle.
Thanks again for your help.
Reno
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litl rooster
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« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2017, 05:00:13 pm »

geeze
alot of you guys sound like salesman for the slix company! no doubt a good product, but believe it or not,  there are some of us who can re work the original springs to achieve the smoothness we crave. been doing it for years.
just sayin'
kw



Welcome to CasCity where shameless plugs and shoutouts lurk on every thread.... and you are only 6 steps away from a big lube mould plug...however most if the stuff had been tried and tested by the user...
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Pettifogger
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« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2017, 10:40:28 pm »

geeze
alot of you guys sound like salesman for the slix company! no doubt a good product, but believe it or not,  there are some of us who can re work the original springs to achieve the smoothness we crave. been doing it for years.
just sayin'
kw


I've ground and polished a lot of carrier and lifter springs.  I just don't like wasting the time and effort anymore when there are quality products that will do the job at a reasonable price.  Even though I am retired I like to spend my time on things other than work. Cheesy
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reno
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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2017, 11:04:57 am »

I've have a 1866 Yellowboy Antique finish ordered from Cimarron, and ask if they could loosen the lever spring screws before they ship it but Kirk told me they don't have an armorer there. I told him I wish they would tell Uberti to make that gorilla that tightens those screws to let up a little, and he said they talked to them, and they said the reason they are so tight is when the guns are blued, the bluing is not dry when the  screws are tighened, and the salt in the bluing causes some of the screws to almost rust in the receiver. Don't know if that is the reason, but that's what they told me, and just thought I would pass it along. If that's the problem you would think Uberti would correct it.

Reno
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #10 on: June 09, 2017, 07:09:04 pm »

Actually ........ The screws in Uberti rifles have been over-tight as far back as I can remember.  As far as I know, Uberti employs a trained Silver Back Gorilla named Bongo.  Bongo wanders around the factory floor after hours installing screws.  Bongo is very strong.

During the years I was a practicing Gunplumber, I must have complained to Uberti a dozen times about their rifle screws.  Uberti didn't/doesn't care.  You cannot believe just how much they don't care.  Uberti does things the way Uberti does things and that's the way it is.  Their attitude is if you don't like it, go buy a typewriter.

Those of us in the trade that gravitated to CAS guns simply developed our own bag of trix to get the screws out without buggering them up.  It is/was quite nice that Brownells replaces their screwdriver bits no questions asked.  An impact driver can make em look like pretzels.  I will admit, I never figured out the secret to the Uberti Carbine front barrel band retaining screw.  Some Trix worked sometimes, sometimes not.  Most had to be drilled out which ruins the band.

Oh, I go back 20 years.  Pettifogger maybe longer (he's really old).  Both of us believe "work" is a four letter wurd.  Not to be uttered in mix'd company.

Coffinmaker
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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  1860 Henry (Moderators: Flint, Major 2)  |  Topic: 1860 Henry lever springs « previous next »
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