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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  Shotguns  |  Topic: Best 12Ga Shell for SASS matches 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Best 12Ga Shell for SASS matches  (Read 4370 times)
Hargrave
" Prairie Smoke" Jake
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« on: January 09, 2017, 01:07:13 pm »


Ok,

I am sure this has been asked before somewhere and I may be opening up a can of worms .....

I am looking to do some bulk purchasing of shotgun shells for hitting those plates ....

Suggestions?

Jacob
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"Prairie Smoke" Jake
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Abilene
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2017, 02:09:47 pm »

Most shoots I go to, the guys shooting factory shotshells are usually shooting Winchester AA "Low Noise, Low Recoil" shells  The part number is AA12FL8.  They used to be called Featherlights with a yellow feather on the box, but after redesigning the boxes there is no more feather, although there is still a feather printed on shell itself.
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Good Troy
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2017, 03:52:05 pm »

+1 on the Win AA Low Noise, Low recoil comment.  I use these shells for my BP loads, so hope folks keep with this trend!
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Good Troy
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Hargrave
" Prairie Smoke" Jake
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2017, 08:22:28 pm »

Good stuff !!

Thank you. I am a BIG black powder fan and thought about shooting up several factory loads and then saving the shells to reload in black ... I guess that is the way to go ...

Thanks,
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"Prairie Smoke" Jake
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Coffinmaker
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2017, 10:50:27 pm »

Nah.  You gonna shoot BP out of an 1878, do it right.  ALL BRASS hulls.  Absolutely the Bizzz.

Coffinmaker
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Hargrave
" Prairie Smoke" Jake
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2017, 07:46:09 pm »

If anyone is interested .... I found this youtube video today that I thought was pretty cool.

Reloading Black Powder Shotgun Shells without Dies
https://youtu.be/fFYNQIwZf6k

Now I am going to have to get some brass shells and load some up.  I will need to get some shot and wads ... but I can make the rest based on what  I have in the garage ...

I will let you know how it works

Jake
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"Prairie Smoke" Jake
Houston, TX
In matters of style, swim with the current;
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Sir Charles deMouton-Black
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« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2017, 12:53:15 am »

Here is as long and rambling post from THE DARK ARTS. In it there is much info about metallic shotshell loading. No videos that I recall, but browse around;

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,9733.0.html

I load my magtechs with common or homemade tools. It's not hard at all.
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NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
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"As Mark Twain once put it, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it does rhyme.”
Bunk Stagnerg
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2017, 07:04:59 pm »

Hammering on a live primer is, in my opinion, not a real great idea. That is how primers work by being hit. 
Not long ago I had two primers pop in my MEC press. Why I really don't know it is the first time in the thousands of shot shells I have loaded. The primer punch was clean and slick no unusual force was applied just a loud bang...twice. perhaps a couple of extra sensitive primers I really do not know. They were Cheddite a brand I have used a lot so go figure.
Just sayin'
Bunk
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Gabriel Law
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2017, 07:58:21 pm »

Hargrave:  I clicked on the link you provided, and was surprised and delighted to see that the author of the video is none other than our very own Eddie Blackwater of the Chilako Vigilance Committee here in Prince George, British Columbia.
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hp246
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2017, 08:01:47 pm »

I use Winchester AA hulls.  They take a beating but keep on ticking. 
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Mean Bob Mean
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« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2017, 01:00:31 pm »

Nah.  You gonna shoot BP out of an 1878, do it right.  ALL BRASS hulls.  Absolutely the Bizzz.

Coffinmaker
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This.  I shoot just under 80 grains of black and 1 1/8 lead and I love it.  Yes, it's a labor of love but who cares.
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2017, 09:10:24 pm »

I buy the Remington STS shotshells for dove season and then use the hulls for my black powder reloads in matches.  They are far superior to the new improved  Roll Eyes AA hulls.  I have found that the AA's will stick in the chambers while the Remington hulls fly out.  They also crimp better in my MEC jr.
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« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2017, 10:17:58 pm »

The gold NITRO 27 shells are the same as STS but look like brass. I'm not sure they are still available?
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NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it does rhyme.”
Baltimore Ed
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2017, 02:05:33 pm »

First thing is what are you shooting them in? I've always heard that ribbed shells are sticky in a double but if they're for a 97 no problem. In my opinion, for regular smokeless powder, clays-red dot etc, WW AAs are the easiest to reload, they are slick and reload nicely. As far as using black I can't tell you which is the best hull or wad. Plastic wads and black powder will coat your bores with nasty, don't ask me how I know. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
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rickk
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« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2017, 11:33:56 am »

If you cut hulls down to 2-1/2" and do a roll crimp, the range pickup that are left behind because the star crimp region is getting to worn out work well and are always free.   

Shoot them once and toss them.
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Sir Charles deMouton-Black
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« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2017, 04:10:23 pm »

If you cut hulls down to 2-1/2" and do a roll crimp, the range pickup that are left behind because the star crimp region is getting to worn out work well and are always free.   

Shoot them once and toss them.

I do that. After the roll crimp I run them through the final stage of my MEC Grabber to do the slight taper at the crimp.

The final answer is to use the shell that shucks out  the easiest.
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NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it does rhyme.”
Drydock
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« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2017, 10:53:22 pm »

Another vote for the Remington STS.  They're what the AA used to be.
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wildman1
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« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2017, 04:43:35 am »

First thing is what are you shooting them in? I've always heard that ribbed shells are sticky in a double but if they're for a 97 no problem. In my opinion, for regular smokeless powder, clays-red dot etc, WW AAs are the easiest to reload, they are slick and reload nicely. As far as using black I can't tell you which is the best hull or wad. Plastic wads and black powder will coat your bores with nasty, don't ask me how I know. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
BP "nasty" will clean out with one wet paper towel pushed thru the barrel. Leaves a mirror finish. Much easier to clean after BP than smokiless powder.
wM1
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« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2017, 09:39:34 am »

Howdy
STS from Remington and I use the Nitro 27 gold hulls for my Vintage Hunting load .
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Sir Charles deMouton-Black
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« Reply #19 on: June 06, 2017, 10:11:27 am »

I have found that ALL R-P products seem to work equally well. STS and Nitro 27 are top of the line, and the older Blue Peters shells are about the same. "Gun Club" of all vintages work almost as well, and that is what I use for "gunpowder."

That is when I'm not using Magtechs Wink
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NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it does rhyme.”
rickk
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« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2017, 11:53:40 am »

I acquire whatever I can as cheap or as free as I can. I cut the star crimp off, load with a BP load, roll crimp, shoot and toss in to the trash.

Sometimes Ballistic Products has once fired stuff for 3-4 cents a hull.
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Stopsign32v
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« Reply #21 on: August 05, 2017, 09:15:40 am »

I just got 100 of the Nitro 27s, possibly over purchased there... Anyways can they be reused numerous times with BP if used the cut/glued method?
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litl rooster
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« Reply #22 on: August 09, 2017, 06:57:21 am »

AA's hulls, wiped with a little bit of silicon based furniture polish before match. STS's work, if your reloading don't buy any you'll find all you need in the trash at any good gun range.  Brass are for cool factor only, not really pc and do take a bit more to load. They are also finicky if different shotguns are used.  WARNING! Then there is the primer issue, i have personally had two or three spark off while setting them. Never had a 209 set off while loading them traditionally.  
My favorite to load is a paper hull with a rolled crimp.

Dick's sporting goods used to give a discount in the case (250 rounds) of AA's .
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« Reply #23 on: August 09, 2017, 10:13:32 am »

Brass Hulls for cool factor only???  Harrumpff!!  My Brass hulls load in ALL my double guns without problems unless some hammhock steps on one.  Primers don't "spark off" when seated correctly.  Brass hulls are slow to load (in the gun).  I don't expect to win any "Speed Shotgun" awards with All Brass hulls.  Oh, almost forgot, a belt full of All Brass hulls is very very KOOL!!

PS:  In my case, I'm too old and slow too be reaching for the Brass Ring.  Therefore, looking very KOOL while not catching the Brass Ring is very important.  Big 'Ol Brass Hulls contribute as much as the Goggles on my HAT   Roll Eyes
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wildman1
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« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2017, 05:37:40 pm »

And you can get a LOT more stuffin in a brassie.
wM1
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