USFA Cavalry Marked 7-1/2"

[Dave T]

Just back from test firing a HN initialed cavalry revolver, which worked just fine and much to my delight shot about 2" above the point of aim some where between 15 and 20 yards. I didn't even bother cleaning it as I wanted to have enough light for the pictures. Excuse the powder smudges and finger prints.









The gun was not new and showed some use by a previous owner but it hadn't been abused. Since I intend to shoot it regularly I wasn't bothered by a few light scratches and some bluing wear on the high points.

According to all the indicators preached here on the forum, this should be a real USFA, American made revolver. Detractors are free to take their pot shots at will. I'm don't care any more. I like this one.

Dave

[The Pathfinder]

Hey, Dave, great USFA you got there. Got one like it my own self. Can't find anything to complain about as it matches up well with my Colt military (1890's, one of the last). And let's face it, the USFA's were made to be shot and do it very well and are a joy every time I take it out. Heck I even shot the concealed carry course with it, after showing the instructor my 7 1/2" barrel shoulder holster  .  And the frock coat I have to wear it under. Shot a 49 out of 50 using black powder ammo, edged out a state trooper shooting his Glock who shot a 48. Course that was a while back when I could still see. Hope you have as much fun with it as I am having with mine. Won't ever be a collectible to anyone but my oldest son who has already said it's the one he wants the most some day, hopefully a few more years down the road tho'.

[Dave T]

Course that was a while back when I could still see.

When I was a young deputy sheriff I used to check the zero of my 357 Mag at 50 yards. 10 years later I was sighting my 1911 at 25 yards. In my mid 50s I started shooting groups at 20 yards because I couldn't see the sights very well any more. Shooting this 45 Colt I put the target somewhere between 15 and 20 yards. Doctor told me I'm gonna need cataract surgery in a few years. Hope they do the surgery before I'm reduced to shooting groups at 5 yards (LOL).

Dave

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[Buckaroo Lou]

Dave,

Terrific looking revolver. I love those inspector series USFA single actions. I have the artillery model 5 1/2" instead of the cavalry one. I bought mine used as you did. Mine too has been fired but is in very good condition. It does have a very light turn line on it. Was owned and shot by someone who didn't know how to load and shoot a single action, but I got it awhile back at a very reasonable price and because of that I can tolerate the turn line.

[Joel6180]

Is there a tutorial on exactly how to avoid turn lines on SA revolvers?  I have a few that I want to shoot, but don't want to mess them up.  Thanks, Joel

[Buckaroo Lou]

I have never seen a tutorial. I just have one main rule. I NEVER begin a cocking cycle except for the safety (first click) without completing the cocking cycle (a full four clicks) before lowering the hammer back to the fired position (a fully lowered hammer). NEVER. If you do that and the revolver is timed properly you will never leave a turn line on the cylinder. Any time the cylinder latch is disengaged from the cylinder you must complete the cocking cycle. Do NOT try and go back to the fired position (a fully lowered hammer) after disengaging the cylinder latch (second click) without completing the cocking cycle (a full four clicks). That is just my rule.

[Capt. John Fitzgerald]

Joel6180,
Here is something that I posted on the forum about 8 years ago.  Hope it helps.

"On some revolvers it is unavoidable, due to mechanical design.  Smith & Wessons and Rugers for example.  Simple mechanics of the gun cause the bolt to rise well before the cylinder is in battery, thus causing the bolt "drag marks" on the cylinder.
Properly timed revolvers of the Colt SAA design should not do this.  The design is such that the bolt rises just before the locking notch comes into place as the cylinder turns.  This is not to say that it won't happen.  With age ( use and wear) some guns will get out of time and the bolt will rise early, causing drag marks.  USFA guns come from the factory properly timed and with proper maintenance you will not have this problem with them.
So... why do you see new SAA's with the drag marks?  Improper (read uneducated) handling in most cases.  Whenever you bring the hammer back to the half cock position, ALWAYS bring it to a full cock before lowering the hammer (and always lower it on an empty chamber).  At half cock, the bolt is lowered and the cylinder is out of battery.  When you drop the hammer from a half cock position, the bolt rises but the cylinder is still out of battery and the bolt rests against the cylinder between the locking notches.  The cylinder is free to turn and when it does the bolt scratches it.  This sin is most often committed while loading.  Proper loading procedure - and I am sure you already know this - is to bring the gun to half cock to free the cylinder.  Load one, skip one, load four, bring the hammer to full cock and then lower it on the empty chamber.  Do this and you shouldn't have any problems with those drag marks."

[Joel6180]

Great information.  That is the method I have been using, so I'll just fire away.  Thanks for the info, Joel