I love my new Uberti 1860 Army, BUT...

[hatman]

While attempting a pre-shoot cleaning today I couldn't get 4 of the nipples off.
Took it over to a friend who's more experienced with C&B and it was still a no-go.  We buggered two wrenches in the process.  One was filed down a bit to fit more deeply, but nada.
I called the vendor, Buffalo Arms, and they were very sympathetic and supportive, but already out of stock of that model.
So at their suggestion I contacted Cimarron and I have to expect a 60 day turnaround once they get it.  There goes the summer.
I will probably just hold my nose and buy replacements from VTI on Monday if they have the parts.

Does anyone have any other ideas to get ridiculously tight nipples off a NIB gun?

On a positive note I bought my first C&B, 1847 Walker, last month and love it.  Not only is it a head-turner at the range, it shoots really well and makes a great whoomp and blast of smoke. 

[Major 2]

No dog in the fight ...but you could get one of these  ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ted-Cash-Ratcheting-Nipple-Wrench-for-Black-Powder-Revolvers-/121668244804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c53fe1544

or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revolver-Nipple-Wrench-1-4-Drive-Socket-Fits-Pietta-1851-60-58-Rem-Others-/281748229571?hash=item419980cdc3

might give you the leverage you...and when they are out use Anti-Seize  , no need to torque them down either

you could also use some Kroil or liquid wrench in the bore over night let to soak

lastly, I've  seen heat , like rapid boil  help loosen really stubborn ones  

[Montana Slim]

As menioned by Major 2.... and I can attest Kroil is good for this purpose. I purchased a pair of unfired Colt 1860 Armys (1970s Cavalry set) a while back and the nipples were very tight. No way I'd chance buggering the nipples on thise. Applied Kroil..and frankly, not planning to shoot them immediately, they went back into the case. Several months later, I was ble to remove them. All of them "snapped" as they released. Similar situation on a pair of new Uberti Navys from Buffalo Arms, but I only let them set overnight.

You might consider converting a small socket to a wrench as described in other threads and forums. Recommend searching for keywords - socket nipple wrench.

Best,
Slim

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[Pettifogger]

As you have discovered, the stock T wrenches are junk.   They are made from dead soft steel and simply won't remove a tight nigpple.  I made one from a grade 8 bolt.  The first link the Major posted seems to be for recycling solid waste.  Definitely don't need that.  The second looks pretty good.  Lots of Uberti screws and parts are TIGHT for the first disasembly.  Once you get them out everything works fine after that.  You can also go here and look at the fifth one down.  (Should be the revolver ratcheting wrench.)

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html#cbnipplewrench

[Major 2]

As you have discovered, the stock T wrenches are junk.   They are made from dead soft steel and simply won't remove a tight nigpple.  I made one from a grade 8 bolt.  The first link the Major posted seems to be for recycling solid waste.  Definitely don't need that.  The second looks pretty good.  Lots of Uberti screws and parts are TIGHT for the first disasembly.  Once you get them out everything works fine after that.  You can also go here and look at the fifth one down.  (Should be the revolver ratcheting wrench.)

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html#cbnipplewrench

OOPS !     Fixing that now  DoH !

Found it   Ted Cash

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ted-Cash-Ratcheting-Nipple-Wrench-for-Black-Powder-Revolvers-/121668244804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c53fe1544

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Make a wrench out of a hard bolt, soak in penetration oil like Kroil then  use a socket and an impact driver on the bolt head and with a couple of taps and it is out.
It takes a while to drill and file out, but that is better than ruining an expensive gun part.
It baffles me why those threaded parts are torqued down to just below the stripping point.
Bunk
 

[hatman]

As you have discovered, the stock T wrenches are junk.   They are made from dead soft steel and simply won't remove a tight nigpple.  I made one from a grade 8 bolt.  The first link the Major posted seems to be for recycling solid waste.  Definitely don't need that.  The second looks pretty good.  Lots of Uberti screws and parts are TIGHT for the first disasembly.  Once you get them out everything works fine after that.  You can also go here and look at the fifth one down.  (Should be the revolver ratcheting wrench.)

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html#cbnipplewrench

Thanks for the link.  I just got notice that VTI is out of stock with the cylinder so with nothing to lose I just ordered the wratcheting wrench.

I did put some Kroil on for several hours yesterday to no avail.  I guess I'll put some more on and let it soak until the new wrench arrives.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

[Coffinmaker]

Of course, the first step is getting the durn things out.  One thing to remember about Uberti.  Uberti has a pet Gorilla (his name is Bongo) who wanders around the assembly area at night ....... Snugging down anything with threads.  Uberti also states they DO NOT use air tools
on their assembly lines.  Ok.  Sure. 
Pettifoger is correct, once you get Uberti threaded thing loose, they are just fine.  When you do get the nipples out, give the nipples and the receptacle a real close inspection for rust.  Uberti often includes rust as a "no Cost" bonus with their products.
As has also been mentioned, most "T" handle nipple wrenches are at best a swell paper weight.  Once you get the nipples out, they can be quite serviceable.  First, though, with a small file, cut the bottom of the notch in the wrench flat to match the flats on the nipples.  I use the ratcheting wrenches from the Possibles shop for stubborn nipples.  For routine maintenance, I like the "cross" wrench shown at the bottom of their page.  The screwdriver end however, is useless and it will hurt your hand using the other end.  Cut it off and dress it smooth.
Heat.  Heat can work wonders for stubborn threaded things.  Especially if some dumb rube has used "Red" LocTite.  A very handy thing in the shop is a small hand held micro torch.  Clamp the offending cylinder in a padded vice, heat the area around the offending nipple and then go for it. 
Incidentally, I alway contribue to Uberti's annual "Bananas for Bongo Drive"   

Coffinmaker

PS:  Almost forgot.  Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant.  Then just finger tight the nipples.  Torque on the nipples is NOT your friend.

[ndnchf]

I bought one of those wrenches made from an impact socket off ebay. I have not tested it yet on a tough nipple, so I can't say how well it will work, but it looks strong. It may need the OD reduced a little to get down into some nipple pockets. I noticed it won't fit into my Spiller and Burr without modification. But that's minor.

[Coffinmaker]

Hatman,
I apologize.  I forgot to mention some key information.  And, to add my congratulations.  You have acquired an Uberti 1860.  A surprisingly
well manufactured, superbly packaged (though Greasy), DELUXE .......... KIT!!!  Fortunately, most of the time, all the parts are there.  Not well fit, but all in the same box.
In fact, there are a couple of us (X Gunsmith types) who describe you acquisition as a rather nice KIT.  It will function right out of the box,
most of the time.  It will however, require tender ministrations to become what I describe as "User Friendly." 
Feel free to peruse the various boards and chase down all the stuff we have discussed about making Cap Guns run.  There is much to learn.  I don't mean to scare you off.  Once properly clean up and set up to run, Cap Guns are capitol fun.  Fun you can have with your clothes on, you betcha.
I also suggest you visit "The Open Range" and STUDY the information provided by the nefarious Larsen E. Pettifogger.  A blackguard of the first quality, who had the patience to sit down and describe most of what it takes to make Cap Guns work.  He even included Photographic
visual aids for those of us whom are sometimes language challenged.
Your gonna have FUN here

Coffinmaker

[Flint]

One thing I found, after working in a gunshop for a few years, is that a newly blued gun does not like to come apart after the first assembly...  Between Uberti's gorilla and the freshly blued (soft) parts like their screws, it's a wonder we can get them apart at all.. Try the lever and lifter spring screws in an Uberti Henry/66/73 rifle.

[hatman]

Hatman,
I apologize.  I forgot to mention some key information.  And, to add my congratulations.  You have acquired an Uberti 1860.  A surprisingly
well manufactured, superbly packaged (though Greasy), DELUXE .......... KIT!!!  Fortunately, most of the time, all the parts are there.  Not well fit, but all in the same box.
In fact, there are a couple of us (X Gunsmith types) who describe you acquisition as a rather nice KIT.  It will function right out of the box,
most of the time.  It will however, require tender ministrations to become what I describe as "User Friendly." 
Feel free to peruse the various boards and chase down all the stuff we have discussed about making Cap Guns run.  There is much to learn.  I don't mean to scare you off.  Once properly clean up and set up to run, Cap Guns are capitol fun.  Fun you can have with your clothes on, you betcha.
I also suggest you visit "The Open Range" and STUDY the information provided by the nefarious Larsen E. Pettifogger.  A blackguard of the first quality, who had the patience to sit down and describe most of what it takes to make Cap Guns work.  He even included Photographic
visual aids for those of us whom are sometimes language challenged.
Your gonna have FUN here

Coffinmaker

Thanks for taking the time to provide your expert experiences and insight.  Much appreciated.

I have to admit this one has been a little disappointing also with regard to a super tight barrel to frame fit and a roughly hewn wedge.
I have quite a number of Uberti revolvers and lever guns and only one of them (MWNN) had some fitting issues that required pre-shooting attention.
Ironically the biggest piece of crap revolver I have is a 1980 Colt SAA.  I have $2000 into it and still has serious problems.

Fortunately the Walker is working fine and what I've found out is I like the "pace" of C&B.  Something about spending several careful minutes reloading makes each shot more worthwhile not to mention the dollars saved per hour of range time. 

I believe I found the Pettifogger info you mentioned and that's just way beyond what I'm willing or interested in doing.
I'm really just a very avid but totally amateur (not to mention lazy) gun enthusiast who has more money than time these days.
Realistically my 1860 will only get its turn at the range maybe 8-10 times a year so I'm just looking for basic functionality and reasonable accuracy.

[Bruce W Sims]

Eh...just in case I overlooked or misread something.....

My own understanding is that the nipples need not be much past "finger-tight" as it were, meaning
not much tightened down at all. All this talk about using anti-seize on the threads has me wondering
if its really necessary to tighten-down so much that anti-seize is necessary. Thoughts?

Best Wishes,

Bruce

[Coffinmaker]

Bruce Dubbia,

You have it correct.  There is no need nor benefit to torquing down nipples in percussion guns.  In fact, it's a no no.

The nipples are just like spark plugs.  Subject to high temperatures.  Those high temperatures, when created by explosive driven flame
can do really bad things to threaded objects.  Spark Plugs aren't torqued down for that very reason and for that reason also are installed
with an Anti-Sieze lubricant.  Down the shooters road, you'll obviously want to remove the nipples.  Anti-Seize insures you won't need
an impact driver and a sledge to do that.

This thread was started by a circumstance caused by the lack of Anti-Sieze lubricant and the fun one is having getting stuck nipples out.
Anti-Sieze also helps defeat ....... rust.  Not that parts cleaned with soap and water would ever be subject to .... rust.


Coffinmaker 

[Noz]

Anti seize or some other form of lubrication is like a vaccination. You may never need it but if you don't use it, someday you WILL be sorry.

[rdstrain49]

Make one of these, if needed use with a couple of light taps on impact driver.  The 3/16 size shown may well not fir your weapon.  I use a dial caliper to measure across the flats of the nipple, convert to inch or metric whichever is closest to what you need.  Takes about 10 minuets to make.  I have one for every size nipple that I have.  Best nipple wrench you will ever have.

[Coffinmaker]

Now THAT is a really nice nipple wrench ! ! !  Superb.  I've got one almost just like it.  However, a dab of Anti-Sieze Lube and just finger tight with a standard Nip Wrench and I've not used it since I made it. 

Coffinmaker

[hellgate]

When removing a stuck nipple I actually give a little bit of a snug in the WRONG direction before I do the "lefty loosey". As I turn the wrench I also tap on the wrench. The cylinder is put into a padded vise to start with and as I torque on the wrench I take a small hammer and taptaptaptaptaptaptap on the top of the wrench while turning until it breaks loose. Kroil or Liquid Wrench helps as a pre-treatment. The wratchet nipple wrench is my favorite.

[hatman]

Well, got the Cash ratchet wrench from the Possible Shop and was able to get one of the remaining four out after soaking for a few days in Kroil and baking the cylinder for a couple hours at 230 degrees.
Does anyone think a higher temp would be better or maybe longer cook time?

At this point I'm just soaking the damn thing in Kroil for a couple more weeks and see what happens.  I don't have much else in the way of options.
Buffalo Arms is out of 1860's and VTI won't have a cylinder until October or so.
At least I can take my Walker to the range today.

[Lefty Dude]

Well, got the Cash ratchet wrench from the Possible Shop and was able to get one of the remaining four out after soaking for a few days in Kroil and baking the cylinder for a couple hours at 230 degrees.
Does anyone think a higher temp would be better or maybe longer cook time?

At this point I'm just soaking the damn thing in Kroil for a couple more weeks and see what happens.  I don't have much else in the way of options.
Buffalo Arms is out of 1860's and VTI won't have a cylinder until October or so.
At least I can take my Walker to the range today.

Put it in the Freezer, over nite .