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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  CAS TOPICS  |  Gunsmithing  |  Topic: Antiquing "How-To" 0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Virginia Gentleman
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« Reply #50 on: January 25, 2008, 10:18:23 am »

How do you make holster wear?  Make lots of passes through the holster until the metal starts showing?
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« Reply #51 on: January 25, 2008, 12:00:29 pm »

That is one way to do it but I think you'd loose interest after a while. You could put jeweler's rouge or polishing compound on a piece of leather and rub the high points until it shows the same amount of wear you would find on an old pistol. A couple photos of old guns would let you know where to do this to really look authentic. A little care would produce a good result. If you have a holster you don't want to use again, you could put the polishing compound all over the inside and start in but that would still be doing things the hard way.
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« Reply #52 on: February 02, 2008, 05:54:20 pm »

Great idea Marshal. The cheapest and ugliest holster will be transformed into very special tool.
But please donīt try this job with the cylinder in only one  position, unless you want a very funny wearing pattern. Shocked

Delgado
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Daniel Nighteyes
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« Reply #53 on: February 28, 2009, 11:46:08 am »

I've posted these pics on SCORRS, and thought they might also be appropriate here.  I started with a pair of Uberti New Model Armies with that butt-ugly Millennium finish.  I dissassembled them, then degreased thoroughly with brake cleaner. I removed the finish by soaking them in white vinegar and wiping off with a series of paper towels.  By the way, I discovered that part of the Millennium finishing process involved bead-blasting the metal.  Next came a thorough soaking in a baking-soda/water solution, and an even more thorough rinsing under running tap water.

The moment they hit the air, they started oxidizing, so I rubbed them down really well with lots of oil.  I thoroughly swabbed out and oiled the bores too.

Next came the fun part -- using and shooting them in matches and, with reasonable care, letting them age on their own.  Several times I've been asked if they're originals, which pleases me greatly.


Here's how they looked shortly after I finished them, but before installing  "aged ivory" grips and the "antique finish" R&D conversion cylinders.  Note that I did not strip the finish from the percussion cylinders:




Here's how they looked with the new grips/cylinders and a few months of handling and use:



And here's how they look today, after better than a year of handling and use:





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« Reply #54 on: March 09, 2009, 10:24:22 pm »

Well here's my nickels worth, I purchased a Richards Mason that came from the factory antiqued it was the only
one in 45 Schofield I could find locally. It had the standard 8"  1/2 bbl. I purchased a 5 1/2 BBL from Cimarron and I
followed the directions for antiquing using white vinagar until I matched the new BBL to the rest of the revolver. I
then used the polimar gun cleaner and protectant by Sweet Shooter as directed and so far rap on wood, no rust or
discoloration. This was two (2) years and many rounds ago.
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« Reply #55 on: May 01, 2009, 10:15:10 pm »

Here's my Pietta Remington 1858 nice and pretty from the factory.


* 1858BEFORE.jpg (26.02 KB, 640x480 - viewed 123 times.)
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« Reply #56 on: May 01, 2009, 10:28:15 pm »

Here's my Pietta Remington 1858 after I destroyed it. Well, I'm not quite finished destroying it yet, I have a few more adjustments to make before I head into the sunset. Or maybe I'll just let time and wear take it from here.
I won't detail my metal finishing here. Suffice it to say that I did a bunch of experimentation, and ended up doing some variations on what you read about other peoples techniques on this site. It was all fun.
I cut the barrel to 5.5", cut the loading lever to match (although it has no latch to keep it from flopping around, so I'll probably never use it. I sanded the grips and finished them using USMC leather die, worked great on the wood! The cylinder pin retaining block (that's what I'm calling it, anyway) I fabricated from a scrap drillbit and some 1/4" steel I had. I drilled and tapped it to accomodate the retaining screw with the knurled brass button shown in the photo detail. I silver soldered a piece of square steel to the bottom front of the cylinder pin, just to fill the small space below it which would have been exposed. This was just cosmetic, but I like the result. The brass trigger guard I gave a slight copper plating to using some old jewelers pickle. Copper ages faster than brass, so I figured I'd give it a try. I fabricated the 2 crosses for the handles from a little scrap sterling, and affixed them with JB Weld, after degreasing the handles. I buffed the handles with the crosses on a buffer, hit them both again with the dye and hand rubbed them. I'll be the first to admit that my gunsmithing is primitive, but this project came out about as I would have hoped for. I finished it with a holster kit I bought from Tandy Leather. Nothing fancy, but I wasn't going to put my creation in a holster I didnt at least put together myself. Unfortunately, now I got the bug and I'm afraid there will be more such projects in the near future.
THE CROSSES ARE A TRIBUTE TO CLINT EASTWOOD
THE NAME OF THIS PISTOL IS "THE PREACHER"
[/b]


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* 1858FINAL 003.jpg (20.49 KB, 576x432 - viewed 106 times.)

* 1858FINAL 004.jpg (15.32 KB, 576x432 - viewed 93 times.)

* 1858FINAL 002.jpg (14.72 KB, 576x432 - viewed 112 times.)
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« Reply #57 on: May 02, 2009, 01:18:36 am »





I got this Dakota years ago as a kit so it was in the "white", so I wanted to finish it to look well used. Well, that and using it for 25 some years has made it come true....

The gun in the book under my gun is Doc Hollidays and it looks very much similar...(pix doesn't do it justice.)

good shootin
curley
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« Reply #58 on: May 02, 2009, 01:21:30 am »

Sorry gang, didn't realize I had already posted to this thread....my apologiezs...

curley
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