Thanks OD#3,
Establishing a correct alignment is needed to have a starting point. You need something to measure from so you're not throwing darts in the dark. I use s.s. flat washers set with an epoxy to correct the hole depth (a shim cut from the appropriate sized feeler gauge can be used to fine tune later if needed). For me, the arbor is an excellent guide for any needed lapping. My specs. call for a .002 barrel /cyl. clearance, so fixing the arbor length is just the first step. Then, if reaching the .002 clearance has the bbl. lug meeting the frame too early, then lapping is needed. Understand that when the wedge is installed, a certain amount of torque will be introduced so you cant "eyeball" the gap without setting the wedge. The bbl. and cyl. gap should be equal from top to bottom ( no pie shaped gaps!).
If lapping is needed, you will also be dressing the arbor end as you go. (See, without a corrected arbor, you dont have a good guid for this step.) The frame is harder than the bbl. so it will eat into the bbl. lug and form a step. I think that's a nice by product of lapping because it produces a stronger joint than just the butt joint that was there. As you mentioned, the pins in an Uberti usually break off, Piettas will come out clean. If you can do this procedure, you wont have trouble drilling out the old and making new.
When/as the lapping is done you will run out of "wedge" at some point. My spec. calls for an adjustable arbor bearing anyway so drilling and tapping the end of the arbor is the norm for me. Can't remember the dia. of the arbor in the '72 but probably a 1/4" (used in all the big guns Walker, Dragoons etc.) or a 6mm (Armys/Navys) set screw will allow you to keep using your wedge. In my process, the set screw is ground flat so the bearing wont cut into the wedge. When you're done, you now have the foundation for precise tuning.
Oh yes, I deal with non-gas ring/bushing OTs and they are self cleaning as you cycle the action. This keeps any build up off the cyl. face so you can maintain a really tight clearance. With a true dedicated bbl./cyl. gap, .003 is as small as I would go. All mine are .003- .005 .
Ultimately, it's the length of the cylinder in your revolver that determines how much and to what degree you go to for the numbers your looking for. Go slow, it takes time, the results are amazing (done correctlly). Stop when you "think" your done (you can adjust it later).
I'm good with a file, can give a polished look with a file, but believe me, lapping is easier and produces a better fit.
Good luck,
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.comNote: the size of the set screw for Armys and Navys is a 6mm not a 10mm. Apparently, I hadn't had my second cup of coffee this morning!