Original Smith and Wesson gunsmith needed

[Short Knife Johnson]

Howdy all.

I was shown the other day a beautiful condition S&W number 3 in .44 American.  It belongs to a friend of mine who inherited it from his dad.  The factory letter has it being shipped the R.L. Robinson in New York around 1874.  It is Nimschke engraved with a nickle finish.  The gun was obtained in the Yukon in the 60's amid a mysterious story behind it.

The current owner wishes to have it restored to working condition.  The cylinder does not lock (perhaps the bolt stop is broken) or advance, the hammer does not hold full cock, and the barrel mounted latch needs a new spring. 

Does anyone know of someone who does work on old Smiths?  Now to further complicate things, he would rather not send it out of Canada.  I told him odds are slim at best of that.  Any help is appreciated.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Murray Charleton in Victoria.    778-426-3884

He is the S&W warranty station in Canada, not that the old girl would still be on warranty.  He's worked on my 1896 Colt SAA and my M89 Reichsrevolver.

[Blair]

Short Knife,

Your friend needs to identify which model type #3 American he has. Photos will help?

Type I uses a stud on the hammer to actuate the bolt stop. There would be a return spring for the bolt stop, but I don't know where this would be located. I don't have that type to compare. Parts maybe difficult to find for this type.

Type II uses the trigger actuated bolt stop. This becomes pretty much standard for the #3's, but may not be interchangeable with all models. It's return spring is located on the front inside of the trigger guard. If the bolt stop is not working it is because the spring is either broken or cracked. (the Uberti repro bolt stop spring may be made to work.)

The hammer not staying in full cock will be either the trigger sear is damaged or the full cock notch on the hammer is damaged, or perhaps a bit of both.
These parts maybe difficult to find as well. However, they maybe repaired with welding.
Hope this helps.
My best,
 Blair

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[Short Knife Johnson]

Right, I will pass that on.  Thank you gentlemen.  No idea what type it would be, I will try to get a photo, but he's intensely private about who sees it/knows about it.

I figure the hammer is munched inside somewhere.  I'm thinking it may indeed be a type I as there is no trigger travel to actuate the bolt stop.

[Blair]

Short Knife,

It is really up to him.
No trigger travel may indicate a broken/missing trigger return spring. That by itself might solve a lot if issues?
These are all things that need to be known before help can be offered.
My best,
 Blair

[Short Knife Johnson]

Thanks for the help Blair.  I've passed on all of the information to the gun's owner.  It is up to him entirely as to what to do.  If it was mine, I'd be sending it to the best gunsmith I could find regardless of where that night be. 

[Will Ketchum]

Keep us posted as to what he decides.  It's always interesting to hear about old guns.

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

I had good service for a friend's pre 1900 short barrel colt ...the gun was rusted in the half-cocked position. Mr Chicoine got it working .... I know that this is for a S&W #3 ...and given the chance he prefers to work on them ... but I had a colt and he was very kind to its owner ... here is his website... it used to have his phone # and email addy.

http://www.oldwestgunsmith.com/


TTFN,

[Blair]

WWE,

Thank you very much.
Very good parts brake down drawings for the American and Russian #3 Model type 1 with the hammer actuated cylinder bolt stop stud.
I was not aware of any parts brake downs of this variation with this quality.
My best,
 Blair

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Blair,

Thank you, I  accept; but it was all Mr. Chicoine and none me ... but he did so good on my friends Colt (and Colt is not the gun he appears to care for) That I just had to send some S&W his way ...

TTFN,

[JohnsonBarr]

Dave has retired and is no longer doing vintage S&W gunsmithing. A very sad thing.

[Blair]

JohnsonBarr,

Thank you for the info. It is indeed sad!

I, for one, am pleased we still have access to these parts brake downs.

They can show the differences between the  reproduction "New" Model 3, and the original New Model #3 S&W revolvers. At least for those that want to have that information.

My best,
 Blair

[rdstrain49]

Jack First, Rapid City SD

[Colt Fanning]

Howdy,
I noticed on the Chicone website that the trigger guard of the first and second model American and the first model Russian are retained by a screw whereas the guard on the new model #3 is retained by a lug.  I own a original S&W in 44 Russian Cal. with a blacksmith made trigger guard.  It has the screw retainer. Does this mean that it is prior to a  New Model 3?  The SN is 148xx.
Regards
Colt

[Blair]

Colt Fanning,

The Trigger guard on the #3 first Model, type I and II American and Russian variations, as well as the #3 Second Model Russian use two screws to hold the trigger guard in place. One on the outside to the rear of the trigger bow, and one from the inside of the frame water table.

The #3 Third Model and the New Model #3 use one screw from the inside of the frame water table with a stud arrangement at the rear of the trigger bow.
The front trigger guard screw also helps hold the bolt stop return spring in place on all these variations.
I hope this helps.
My best,
 Blair

[Colt Fanning]

Thanks for the info Blair.  That clears up what I have.
Regards
Colt