Loading Data for the 50/95WCF

[dusty texian]

The pressure ! The pressure !!!!! ,,,,DT

[DTS]

You're using a 430 grain bullet?!?!?!?

Couple years ago (has it been that long?) when I bought my 76 in .50/95, I first tried a shortened Lyman 515141 mould that I had cobbled up for my 42" twist .50/70 Sharps Carbine.(original 1859 barrel - lined and chambered by Sharps)

"The shortened #515141's, weighing from a low of 410gr. to a maximum of 420gr. I lubed them by hand, with a mix. of 60% (good) beeswax, 40" Vaseline which had worked for me, for 20years or more, smokeless or black powder.  I made 2 deliberate, 5 shot groups, off the bags (resting the back of my left hand on the bench-rest's bag) ran a horizontal group 3 1/2" wide C to C and only 1 5/8" high, then the nasty, gusting cross wind shifted, to directly behind us & gusting making a group 2.9" C to C and only 2.3" wide."

This was the only time I have deliberately shot paper with this rifle.  I have since mounted the Smith Enterprises ladder sight I pictured on a previous page.

With that sight & the 44N powder load f 52gr. + 368gr. Lyman 515139 (1,650fps), I got into the dirt underneath our 1,000 meter buffalo.
This was after hitting the 200 and 300 meter 16" x 14" AR500 plates. I ran out of ammo and promised myself I'd hit that buffalo this summer.  I have some ammo loaded (same load) and a rough idea where to set the slide and yes - it is near the top. Have to be careful or the heal of the butt really digs into the collar bone.

[dusty texian]

Only one way to find out! Post pic's of boar and rifle together!

    Here Ya Go King M.  Shot was at 50 yd . Hog dropped in its tracks .,,,DT

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[King Medallion]

Excellent!!

[frimath]

Been trying to find/ buy some 50-95 win brass but it’s either not available or crazy expensive , more than ever before. I’ve read some postings about alternative brass and 50 Alaskan came up............I could use some help and recommendations. Thanks John

[wymanwinn]

Been trying to find/ buy some 50-95 win brass but it’s either not available or crazy expensive , more than ever before. I’ve read some postings about alternative brass and 50 Alaskan came up............I could use some help and recommendations. Thanks John

dang!  over $4 a case....AND not even available....glad i got mine when i did....

[greyhawk]

Been trying to find/ buy some 50-95 win brass but it’s either not available or crazy expensive , more than ever before. I’ve read some postings about alternative brass and 50 Alaskan came up............I could use some help and recommendations. Thanks John

I think most of us with these 76's are gonna have to get used to converted brass --- 348 w, 50 Alaskan, 50/110 W, all share same parentage - My Uberti 45/75 functions flawlessly with converted 348 brass .... 50/95 from 50 Alaskan should work well

I made a trim die setup for the lathe (didnt own a good case trimmer at the time)   

[frimath]

Well......... I ordered up 100pc of 50 Alaskan for use in my Uberti 50-95 win.  Other than cutting the new brass down to the overall length of the 50-95 win. Is there anything else I need to do?!?!

Also, is there anyone stocking lead bullets to use in this caliber? I’ve got a new set of dies coming so now the only thing I’m lacking is 300-330 grain lead bullets........in a .510-.515 dia range ....I thought maybe Buff Arms Co. Might stock them but their website is just awful to deal with and find anything. Graf & Sons only had gas checked lead bullets............

[dusty texian]

Midway USA   list the 300 gr. @ .510  ( Montana Precision Swaging ) bullet as available . It looks like a good bullet . ,,DT

[wymanwinn]

Well......... I ordered up 100pc of 50 Alaskan for use in my Uberti 50-95 win.  Other than cutting the new brass down to the overall length of the 50-95 win. Is there anything else I need to do?!?!

Also, is there anyone stocking lead bullets to use in this caliber? I’ve got a new set of dies coming so now the only thing I’m lacking is 300-330 grain lead bullets........in a .510-.515 dia range ....I thought maybe Buff Arms Co. Might stock them but their website is just awful to deal with and find anything. Graf & Sons only had gas checked lead bullets............

seeing that you also have aUberti 50-95 is i would strongly suggest you slug the bore...i bought my Uberti 1876 50-95 centennial from Buffalo Arms and they stated the bore was .509....WRONG is slugged out at .514...i bought their suggested ammo for it and could not hit the barn standing in the doorway....cast my own 375 grain Spencer bullet from Moose Molds at .515-.516, sized them to .515 and wonder of all wonders...could easily group them on a 12" steel target at 100yards....

slug your bore THEN purchase reloading goods....

btw, Buff Arms was amazed that i even thought about slugging the bore....WTF!!!

wyman

[frimath]

50 Alaskan brass!  Well I got it from Starline and now I?m ready to cut it down ( uniformly) but it?s 99 pcs left . I ordered an RCBS die for the 50-70 but the 50 Alaskan will only go in about a quarter of the way in. I thought I would either use a Dremel tool or a file to cut the brass down but no good. My Wilson case trimmer cutter is not wide enough to cut the 50 cal diameter so I?m quickly out of options and could use some advice.

Fwiw, I annealed the first piece of brass I used after hand cutting it and then lubed I and it went right into the FL resized die and came out with the slight bottle neck that is needed. Should I continue to anneal the remaining cases or can I bypass that step? I?m so close and I really want to get out and shoot this baby again but I need help. Thanks in advance compadres!

[larryo1]

Frimath:
If you want to keep your brass, I sure would take the time and anneal those cases.  That may cost a bit of time on your part but in the long run, you will have what you want and those cases will last.  Just remember to anneal them after about 5-10 times of shooting and they will be well worth it in the long run.  You can force the cases in without annealing but you will most likely ruin some.I fireformed and annealed all my 45-75 cases and am still using them.

[greyhawk]

50 Alaskan brass!  Well I got it from Starline and now I?m ready to cut it down ( uniformly) but it?s 99 pcs left . I ordered an RCBS die for the 50-70 but the 50 Alaskan will only go in about a quarter of the way in. I thought I would either use a Dremel tool or a file to cut the brass down but no good. My Wilson case trimmer cutter is not wide enough to cut the 50 cal diameter so I?m quickly out of options and could use some advice.

Fwiw, I annealed the first piece of brass I used after hand cutting it and then lubed I and it went right into the FL resized die and came out with the slight bottle neck that is needed. Should I continue to anneal the remaining cases or can I bypass that step? I?m so close and I really want to get out and shoot this baby again but I need help. Thanks in advance compadres!

Do you have a lathe???

[Professor Marvel]

whip up a little "depth guage jig" attached to the side of a copper pipe cutter.
using tight fitting dowling in the brass, cut the brass down with the pipe cutter.

that will manage the heavy lifting and can be quite accurate.
then anneal, size, etc

good luck
prf mvl

[frimath]

Professor! Thanks for the deceptively simple fix! I like the idea of the copper tube pipe cutter , I even have one.

[frimath]

Is it best to fireform the cases and THEN anneal them or..............anneal them first and then load them and fireform them?

[larryo1]

I know that this probably don't apply to your 50-95 but the way I did it for my 45-75 was to cut and trim and fire form and then anneal the cases.  I know this was quite some time ago and most likely left something out but I believe that this was the way that I think that I did it.  also, about every 5 or 10 shots, I clean and re-anneal the brass.  That keeps them healthy for a bit longer before they start to crack and whatnot.  After all these cases-no matter what the caliber, are damn pricey--IF you can even get any now. So I hope that this tidbit helps you.

[frimath]

Soooooooooooooo! Just an update and my first attempt to download some photos. The good news is that I?ve learned how to use the 50 Alaskan brass to make 50-95 Win , YIPPEE !!! I used the little pipe cutter recommended and a brass rod as a support while cutting. I measured with a micrometer and marked the casing and then cut. Thereafter I ran them through a cutoff die and anything higher than the die I filed down ( not a great consistent measurement but it?ll do for now). Thereafter I ran them through the FL resize die and got a verrrrrrrrrrry slight bottle neck that inserted just fine unto my Uberti Model 1876 Presido model 50-95. Thereafter , I annealed them all, and reloaded with about 10 grains of unique and a wax wad and fired them formed them ( kind of.....🤔) and the bottleneck was ever so slightly more apparent. I will try to post photos here.....

If I did this right the first photo should show the original casing that came with the rifle i( is on the right) and the one on the left is the casing cut down and run through the resize die......the second photo shows the original casing in front and the rest behind it are resized and annealed........don?t remember now if they were ? fireformed? with the wax wad or not.........more to follow

[frimath]

Here is the original casing on the right and the newly cut casing on the left.....

[frimath]

Here is the newly formed casing on the left after it was run through the resize die.....