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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  CAS TOPICS  |  The Leather Shop (Moderators: Marshal Will Wingam, Ten Wolves Fiveshooter)  |  Topic: Straight Border 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Straight Border  (Read 2773 times)
Rap Scallion
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2005, 04:47:24 pm »

Howdy Pards.

Uncle, Pard if you are talking about cutting a grovr there is a tool called a, stitch groover, or something close.  If you just want to scribe a line evenlu around your border use a pair of dividers.  One leg on the work piece and one leg up against the edge.  MIght want dividers with a screw adjustment.  I hope this helps.
Regards Beaumont

Cigars to Marshall Will and E R!  Two ways to do it......One with a stitching groover which acutally cuts a groove down into the leather, usually used for hand stitching/sewing this groove is for the awl to go through and the stitching to lay down in.  I sure don't think that cutting with a swivel knife around the edge of a holster is the way to go to duplicate this.  Too much chance of cutting through the holster at a very critical point!   The other way, which is better IMHO,  is to use the adjustable creaser....this method just puts a deep crease into the leather and doesn't, or shouldn't cut into it.  The idea is to get a nice parralle line around the edge. It does give the piece a professional look,  like beveled and finished edges!  I started out doing it with a groover until I got some advice from a saddler.  The crease should be put into the leather just as any other tooling, while damp after "casing", just like stamping or carving!
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W G Martin
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« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2005, 06:19:44 pm »

Thanks all.  I've an adjustable creaser and a stitch groover.  I've worked hard with the creaser and don't like what I've seen. I guess I just need to keep practicing.

Thanks All,

UC
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Marshal Will Wingam
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« Reply #12 on: October 22, 2005, 08:50:11 pm »

I've never had much success using an adjustable creaser, either. I prefer a more crisply defined edge. Both the stitch groover and the swivel knife, if used correctly, only cut into the top grain where there is no strength. That's where all the tooling is done, too. I use both on my work where applicable. Notice the border design on this holster. I cut the line between the border and the background with the swivel knife using the guide I showed in an earlier post. I used a stitch groover to cut the groove so the stitch line would be laid evenly just below the surface. Neither is cut into the leather deeper than the top grain. I finished the outside edge with an edger and used a smaller edger along the line cut with the swivel knife to give a more finished look to the border. Rap Scallion is correct that everything should be done when the leather is cased for tooling with the exception of the stitch groove which is usually done after the leather is dry.


* Edge.JPG (16.4 KB, 300x300 - viewed 85 times.)
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« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2005, 04:19:17 pm »

Stitch groovers, gougers an such remove a trough of leather where as the blade of your carving knife will cut the line.  Some of the catalogs actually carry a specialty swivel knife blade that mimicks a beader by cutting a double line that is domed in between like the beeder.
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Uncle Chan
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« Reply #14 on: October 23, 2005, 07:17:15 pm »

Slowhand Bob,

I have one of those blades you are referring to.  It is ceramic and costs a might purty penny.  Unfortunately, it is little more than a double bladed knife.  I've tried it at all angles and all pressures, trying to find that perfect bead.  No luck yet, but I'm not going to give up!  Smiley

Uncle Chan
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Marshal Will Wingam
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« Reply #15 on: October 23, 2005, 08:55:56 pm »

I got this good question from Uncle Chan and, with his permission, am posting my reply here so others can read it.

Quote from: Uncle Chan
Would you be willing to send me  pic or two of the edgers you use?  Your pics in the "straight line" string are great, and the edge you have along the border is precisely what I"m looking to reproduce.  I'm using Tandy edgers #2 & #3 and I can't get them into a groove to edge the inside.

Here are a couple photos of the edgers I use. The large one is a #3 and the small one is probably a #1, but I had to modify it some to be able to get into the tight places I wanted, probably the same thing you're running into now. I filed the sides off to make the creasing edges sharper to get a more defined line. In the process, the size number disappeared but there appears only to be room for a 1 there. At any rate, the thing is about half the size of the other one. I have a #5 and it's about twice the width of the #3 so that seems to bear that out, assuming there's any logic to their sizing. I also pushed the tip further into the handle to make it easier to work with. You may have to drill the center hole a bit deeper to be able to do that without cracking the handle. I see the sides are also  angled differently, but I probably only did that to get the groove an even depth all the way along it. I can really get that one in tight places without needing to tip it too far back.

The #3 is the one I use for the outer edges of the holster and the small one is what I use against the cut I made with the swivel knife. After I use the small edger, I then stamp the border. After that, I carefully go over the beaded edge once again to sharply define it. See my photo above to see the result.


* edgers1.JPG (15.61 KB, 464x348 - viewed 73 times.)

* edgers2.JPG (16.76 KB, 464x348 - viewed 68 times.)
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« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2005, 11:14:32 am »

howdy pards,
I'm interested in a creaser too. I saw on the osborn site that they produce the "creaser n°21" in five measure..........but who sell them?

http://www.csosborne.com/NO21.HTM

TY
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Rap Scallion
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« Reply #17 on: October 24, 2005, 12:17:40 pm »

Hi Again Pards..........

Thanks for that pic Marshal Will!  Looks really great!

<< I prefer a more crisply defined edge. Both the stitch groover and the swivel knife, if used correctly, only cut into the top grain where there is no strength.>>

After ruining a 1911 holster, I was making, with a swivel knife edge definition cut,   Shocked  I got a little gun shy about cutting with my knife along the edge particularly when sewing and cutting a stitching groove too.  I guess that I need to grab them boot straps and pull reall good and get back on that knife.  I really like that picture that you have for an example.

Cutting and building with cowhide is just like shooting!  Ya wanna get better at it ya gotta practice! Wink
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W G Martin
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« Reply #18 on: October 24, 2005, 12:31:08 pm »

Cutting and building with cowhide is just like shooting!  Ya wanna get better at it ya gotta practice! Wink
Isn't that the truth. You never can get too much practice.
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Nolan Sackett
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« Reply #19 on: October 24, 2005, 05:26:12 pm »

howdy pards,
I'm interested in a creaser too. I saw on the osborn site that they produce the "creaser n°21" in five measure..........but who sell them?

http://www.csosborne.com/NO21.HTM

TY
the following folks carry the full-line of Osborne tools - if it's not in their on-line store give them a shout.
Mid Continent Leather Sales Company
26450 E. 11th
Coweta, OK 74429
(918) 486-2900
(800) 926-2061
http://www.midcontinentleather.com/

When using an edge creaser heat the "blade" using a candle or an alcohol lamp. They DO NO need to be hot, just warmed and keep a clean rag handy to wipe off any soot before using it. Warming it will help define the line - also it's the way the "old timers" did it.......... Wink

PS practice on scrap and yes you do it when the leather is cased (aka damp NOT sopping wet..........)
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