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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  CAS TOPICS  |  The Leather Shop (Moderators: Marshal Will Wingam, Ten Wolves Fiveshooter)  |  Topic: 1911 Pattern Western Style 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: 1911 Pattern Western Style  (Read 1577 times)
Ten Wolves Fiveshooter
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« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2009, 07:15:07 pm »

Howdy Kid .

       Outstanding holsters pard, beautiful work to say the least, like I said before I can tell you enjoy what you're doing, the lace on the one holster adds a nice look, both holster are rich looking your carving and stamping is perfect, thanks for sharing KT

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« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2009, 08:08:14 am »

Kid, your pattern must actually look very similar to the one I posted, with yours having a bit of a higher cut over the slide.  Your holsters demonstrate how much can be done with a simple pattern and an amount of artistic vision. Normally I would really like the basic floral on earthtones much better but it surprising to me how nice the gater looks without becoming overly gaudy looking.  Do you have anything in the way of matching magazine pouches for these?  I am beginning to think you run a gater farm pard, any chance you be from Luzzyanna?

Guys, though you can not see it in the pictures, the edges finished out really nice without any edgers or other steps beyond those listed above.  With just a bit of extra pressure and work using the sanding sponges I actually achieved that rounded and finished edge.  My next step on this project will be folding, gluing and sewing BUT this is where I am hitting a bit of a block.  Having a fairly well equipped shop for so many years, even when hand sewing, it escapes me on what to recommend to someone without any leather working resources.

We have a stitch line that was laid out with just a kids compass and the same compass can also be used to lay out individual stitches but then we need stitch holes and needle/thread for the stitching job.  I have not used a nail to punch holes but have heard of doing it, I am not a fan of drilling them but know it works and, and???  If anyone is following, give me some thoughts on how to accomplish workman like stitch holes without even going out to the shop.  For the actual stitching instructions I would like to just link to some good instructions on the internet, any links would be appreciated.

Lastly we will figure out what to do with thet long cows tongue skirt and strap afore getting into finishing it off.  Though there appears to be lots of watchers I have no feedback as to whether anyone is really getting engaged with this as a project but will keep plodding until someone says enuff!       
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« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2009, 09:04:19 am »

Thanks for the nice comments and no I,m from MN. And I dont even have a sandburr farm. I,m lucky to have the collection I have
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JD Alan
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« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2009, 09:56:36 am »

Kid T, I agree with everyone else's take on your holsters. They're really nice to look at, great design and workmanship.

Bob, I am going to try this project, right after I finish up the holsters from the other pattern you shared. I have five of them cut out, and in different stages of being complete. I just posted a picture of the one I cut out and lined last night. I'm going to sew it up this morning to see how it fits, before going ahead with the main two. I've got two dyed, including one with a liner that I dyed as well. I'm going to glue the liner on as soon as I figure out how I want to attach the back flap, and whether or not I'm going to need a welt to fit the gun to the holster.

The holster in the back was just dyed last night, along with the liner, and isn't dry yet. 

Using the sponge sanders really works great, thanks for that idea

Some of you sharp eyed pards may notice that one of the holsters has a stitch groove on the back. I've already had someone PM me to let me know it would be better to wait until I have it glued together before grooving the back. I really appreciate that info.  

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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2009, 10:56:38 am »

One suggestion: I can't tell from the photos, but is the holster cut high enough that it can depress the clip ejection button when the gun is inserted in the holster?  If the leather contacts the button, there is a high probability of the clip coming loose!  Sad  If you've ever examined a M1916 military holster, you will notice a piece of leather that covers a spacer (sometimes made of wood, or plastic, or just a thicker piece of leather) that stops just forward of the button, and forces the inside of the holster away from the button.  Thought I'd mention that, as it could prove embarrassing to loose or at least loosen the clip!  Embarrassed
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« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2009, 11:36:13 am »

Kid, you do indeed have some beautiful holsters pard.  You just leave the sand spurs to me as I have been fighting them for several years now.  Started with a load of topsoil I had hauled in and boy are they a bugger to get rid of.  Fighting sand spurs and Mole Crickets over a two acre yard is a nightmare!

JD, you are the busy one my friend.  The stitch layout lines I am showing on this project are actually out of order with the way I normally work but I wanted to be sure that anyone doing this for the first time totally understood what a holsters mainseam is so I layed it out early on.  Im not quite sure that I understand how you would add a stitch groove to the back after the sewing is done though?  I am making no proviions for a stitch groove on this one, in the spirit of keeping store bought to an absolute minimum.

Next step is to add glue for assembly and the two glue lines are depicted by the shaded areas, about a quarter inch strip applied lightly along both edges should work fine.  There are several good leatherworking glues on the market and you can find them through Tandy and I hope some of the guys on here might know of something good that you can pick up locally.  In a real crunch I would not hesitate to use Elmers yellow glue for this particular application.  Strength of bond is not the great concern on this use but I do tend to worry about getting holsd of something that wood be corrosive in contact with your gun.  Follow the the instructions on the bottle for whatever you decide to use.

This pattern has a very well fitting edge at the mainseam and the better you can keep this in alignment during the glue stage the less work later.  Trying to keep those edges in perfect alignment, you now fold the holster and connect the two glued edges together, I like to work down from the top corner on an open toe holster like this.  Once that top corner is perfect, apply a spring clamp and then work your way down, aligning and clamping the edges until you reach the bottom.




* wbproject3.jpg (103.71 KB, 412x500 - viewed 36 times.)

* wbproject4.jpg (77.35 KB, 509x640 - viewed 38 times.)
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JD Alan
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« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2009, 12:04:47 pm »

Bob, I think one of the chanllenges here is I'm workinbg on the other set of patterns you posted for the SAA. I haven't done anything with the 1911 pattern yet.

From Chuck B's Holster DVD, I'm grooving the front main seam line, and prepunching holes on the holsters I'm making before gluing, then stitching the main seam.  I seem to remember someone suggesting having a stitch groove on the back, to help keep the stitches in line, but I'm not sure where I saw-read that. 

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« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2009, 12:10:54 pm »

hey there pard just throwing in my $.02 cents worth in but as for glue  i use i get mine for the local hardware store just plain old contact cement i think its 7 bucks a quart
just my .02 worth
Cowboy316
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Slowhand Bob
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« Reply #18 on: September 22, 2009, 12:30:09 pm »

JD, my response was based on misreading your post, sorry.  Yes, I to prefer finishing the mainseam edge before laying out that stitch line, just in case more dressing, leather removal, is required than expected.  Many years ago, before my finger joints started breaking down, I would groove and stitch roll the back seam in an attempt to get perfect looking stitches on both sides.  Later I started pre-punching the front row and finishing the punch through the rear after the seam was glued.  Though I use machines for most of my sewing now, Chucks video did affect my method of hand sewing for those jobs that require the needle and thread be done by hand.

You should find this little Wild Bunch holster to be far easier to do than the other patterns and this should even apply if you decide to line this one.  Those other patterns can get weird on you real fast until you have done a couple or so.  I am somewhat disappointed that I received no takers from the SASS WIRE on this project but we should wind it up soon and I will simply post a small single mag pouch pattern to end this.
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« Reply #19 on: September 22, 2009, 07:14:13 pm »

This is really great info your giving.  I am thinking of starting the two holsters blanks you sent me.  Not knowing where to start, I am soaking up all the info from all the Pards so I can have some idea of what I am doing.  Keep it up.

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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  CAS TOPICS  |  The Leather Shop (Moderators: Marshal Will Wingam, Ten Wolves Fiveshooter)  |  Topic: 1911 Pattern Western Style « previous next »
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