1911 Pattern Western Style

[Slowhand Bob]

This was my basic pattern based on the little holster that I patterned for the Wild Bunch shooters.  This is about as simple as a holster pattern gets and I really feel that any beginner could accomplish it with our input/help.  It is my hope that I can make one over the next few days or so, using only the most basic tools, those found around the home as much as possible.  Most of the notes needed for basic construction are included on the pattern itself for anyone not wanting to wait on me.  Where radius's are shown which would allow for punch cuts before starting with the knife, if you have these punches available.  Hope you enjoy.

I would print out at least two copies of this pattern, one to use and one to file.  I like to paste my working patterns onto heavy paperboard such as tablet backing or even cereal boxes.  This will assure that you get at least several good copies onto leather before the edges start to break down.  The strap is just a generic one I use on several holster patterns and you might find it useful elsewhere as well.  You can vary the height of it to suite the project at hand, full width for patterns or conchoes and narrowed down for something simpler or just plain.

[Dalton Masterson]

Very nice pattern SB!!! Would be a nice Wild Bunch holster!
DM

[Slowhand Bob]

Thanks Dalton and I would appreciate any ideas that you guys might wish to throw in as alternatives to what might work for new leather workers trying to make their first holster.  My son would tell you that I am not a great teacher when it comes to translating the English to something remotely understandable.  Wouldn't it be great if a newby could take home a little something from all of us?

The following photo is my first step in transferring the pattern to 9/10oz leather (see Tandy for anything between 8 and 10 ounces for this project).  I usually trace the pattern using a dull (rounded point) pencil but in this case I used an x-fine point marker.  Do not use ball point pens as the ink will smear and ruin the finish. 

Shown with the leather are my three favorite cutting knives for most situations.  The center knife is just a bent head version of a common box opener and is the only one I will use for this project.  The X-Acto is normally used for intricate cutting in tight curves or corners while the blue Personna is a Plain Jane carpet knife used for mostly straighter cuts.  Working in those rounded corners is made easier with the use of hole punches but I will forgo their use here (real cheap sets can be found now days at flea markets and import distributors).

   

 

[knucklehead]

great looking pattern.

me thinks that im gonna have to make a western style holster finaly for my 1911 this winter.

one thing that i learned from chuck burrows videos is use a red ball point pen on leather. the dark brown dye and darker colors will cover the red ink and cause it to wash out and not be seen on the finished project.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Slowhand

     Nice beginner instructions, and a good way to get started in leather, thanks for taking the time to do this.

     
                                                   Regards

                                             tEN wOLVES 

[Slowhand Bob]

HAR HAR HAR, how timely on the red ink hint.  Normally I would actually dye/oil this project now, before working the edges, but I am leaving it natural so that details will show better.  So far we are still amongst the tools and supplies that one might find around the home for the project and I also show the latest ones used to get to this point.

Pictured are a sponge for moistening the leather edges, two sponge sanding pads (one fine, one coarse/medium), one cotton canvas garden glove and a kids school compass.  You will notice that there is a red line running along one edge, we will call this edge the main seam front edge and when the holster is folded along its center line the far edge that lines up with this front main seam will be the rear main seam edge or both edges create the edge for sewing the main seam.  The red line was laid out with the compass and will be the actual main seam later.  I tend to think most leather workers use app. 1/8" as a standard distance from the edge to a finished stitch line at the main seam.  Mine is a bit wider here to allow for plenty of edge dressing, if necessary.

Try to get your cut as smooth and close on the line as possible, this saves finish work in the next steps.  With a reall damp sponge I go over all edges but the two which will form the main seam later.  A close look should reveal the correct edges that will get finished as they were still damp when photographed.  Next I went over the damp edges with my coarsest sanding spong to remove the roughest areas, sand in one direction only and this should only require a few strokes as leather is relatively soft.  Next, sand those same edges again using the smooth sanding sponge and just a few strokes should get the edge really clean, be sure to sand in the same direction as used with the first sponge.  Mostly we should have been removing slight cutting imperfections and loose fibers but now we are going to slick (buff) that edge to a smooth and shiny surface using the glove.  Once again we want to keep all our strokes in the same direction and apply some moderate pressure to the still damp edge.  If the leather tends to show edge deformation then you are bearing down to hard.

[JD Alan]

It looks great to me Bob, Im looking forward to making one. I've got quite a few friends with 1911's using black kydex, not good for Cowboys! Thanks for making this available Bob. I for one really appreciate it.JD

[Kid Terico]

Pict. of my 1911 every day rig.Wife and I have concealed weapons permits so I wear this one everyday. Light weight and comfortable Sunday dress up rig

[cowboy316]

howdy SB
great pattern just one question i printed it out and it was small what % do i need to enlarge it to to be the right size
Cowboy316

[Slowhand Bob]

Tim, I am not sure what happens or if it is repeatable for others but here is what is working for me.  First I click on the image within the post and after it expands, I right click on the image.  From the menue that opens up I select "save image as" and put it in a computer file of my choice on my computer.  From this I can open it in either Adobe Elements or Photo Shop Pro and print from there at 100%.  This does not work accurately for me with the little program that was included in the Microsoft bundle, for whatever reason???  I am guessing this will work with any pay for play photo enhancement program but??  Let me know what happens and we will figure something out from there.