Makin' "Punkin' Ball" loads in Magtechs w/BP

[Oregon Bill]

I wouldn't be terribly concerned about using a close-to-bore-size ball in an IC or M barrel in a MODERN gun. I would use dead soft lead, however. But I'm funny that way.

[Delmonico]

With a modern choke set up for plastic shot cups (more open than older ones for card wads) you are dealing with 0.0010 for IC and 0.0020 for Mod.  Try to size a pure lead round ball that much in a die and see how much force it takes.  Remember this is hitting at a fair amount of velocity and with peressure behind it when you fire it.  I don't know if it would be that bad, but a scary unknown in my opinion.

[Silver Creek Slim]

So yer saying a shotgun slug is riding on a cushion of air like a cannon ball?

Slim

[Delmonico]

Slim, do you mean a hollow based "rifled" slug?

[Silver Creek Slim]

Nope, the un-rifled pumpkins. 

Slim

[Delmonico]

Acually both use wads like shot.

[Grizzle Bear]

Since I have not seen any Magtech shells in 10 gauge, I presume we are talking 12, right?

A .690 ball is what you want.  They work fine!  The way I load them, is to load your powder charge, put a cushion wad on top of the powder.  Take a thinner card wad, I use a .125, and punch a hole through the center of it.  Load the card wad, place a ball on it, then load another card wad on top of the ball.  This way, the ball is centered, and flies pretty straight.

I have also made some buck and ball loads, with one roundball and 9 buckshot.  As I remember, only used about 50 grains of FFg, and still the recoil was.......um....SUBSTANTIAL!

Grizzle Bear

[Silver Creek Slim]

Oops, I forgot about the wad. 

Slim

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanks for all the replies and interest, pards!

O. Bill - dead soft is the ONLY type of lead I'd consider.  And yes, my Tula, while imported back in the 70s or 80s (it still says USSR) is pretty modern steel and like most Soviet equipment, is over-built in the strength department.  A NICE feature, IMHO.  It is essentially the same as one of the newer imports, (Bounty Hunter II I think) but has some of the older styling details which I like.  (Slim wrist like old guns, dark red buttplate and pistol-grip cap, etc.  It even has some minor engraving - which is still on the newer imports, I think.  It's just enough decoration to make it look less than bare-bones plain.  The chrome lined barrels/chambers and short forcing cones are a nice touch.  [As an aside: the longer forcing cones are thought to be easier on the shooter, recoil-wise.  My old Stoeger had looong forcing cones, this Tula doesn't.  I can tell NO difference in felt recoil.  However, I have heard from learned folks that the longer forcing cones work better if your loads use a plastic shotcup, but if you use wads - like me - then you (I) can get good patterns with wads.  I've never had the opportunity to "print" my loads, so I can't say fer sure.]

Griz - yep, 12.  Thanks for the GREAT suggestion.  How big of a hole do you punch?  I assume (  ) that is to center the ball, so to speak.  No cloth patches to make up for any bore differences due to the choke?  You didn't say, so I'd guess the top wad has no hole, correct?  How much powder are you calling a square load?  The same (approx. & by volume) 50 grs. for the buck'n'ball?   What I use now is a Lee adjustable shot dipper set at 1 oz for 2F or 3f (whatever is on hand) and either 1 or 1 1/8 oz of #8 or #9 shot.  Or whatever.  we haven't got any knockdowns yet, only swingers, but my load moves them right nicely!

Buck'n'ball!  Sounds like my NEXT project! 

[Grizzle Bear]

Jeff:

Yes, the hole is just to center the ball.  Think I used a 5/16ths or 3/8th punch. No hol in hte over-the-ball card.

Don't remember what a .690 ball weighs, think I was using 70 or 75 grains og BP.

(No trouble hitting an IPSC silhouette at 75 yeards.)

If you want to try buck-and-ball, you should reduce the powder charge, so it doesn't beat you so hard!  I think the 9 OO buckshot weighs about the same as a ball, so  you have a double-weight payload.

GB